10,0466 Miles Later-Give or Take a Few

 Muoyo, wenu Balunda ne Bana betu! Tudi mu Congo! ( Hello, Friends and Family! We are in Congo!)

( If you are use to my Christmas letters, you are fine. If not - as in the title for this blog 10,000 + miles- well 10,000+ minutes is how long it may take you to read this post. So get a comfortable chair, read it later, delete it or enjoy this wonderful and crazy ride with us!)

"We are not in Kansas anymore!" We left DFW with Flight instructions in Texas English. Left Chicago on United with instructions in English and then all in French. Then we left Brussels- on Brussels Air - a FABULOUS experience. Instructions were all in French and we did understand it (Or was it the visuals on their monitor?!). - Just kidding- they also gave them 100 MPH  in German, Flemish and English with a very thick French accent! Not one single group sang all of the Instructions or Rapped the instructions like Texas Based Southwest Airlines sometimes does.;)  Bummer!



The whole family was at the lake before we left. It was great to have all 10 of us together before we left for Congo.  On Monday Clint and LeeAnn took us to the airport way early as requested. We were concerned about getting through security with five months of shots surrounded by ice packs and enough meds to start our own pharmacy. Sailed through.They did not open or look in one single thing! (Our Devotional yesterday started with "Welcome Challenging times as opportunities to Trust Me."  Well,Ken does. Well, I do too- but... ;) I was prepared for any eventuality with notes from doctors for each med., copies from TSA saying if the ice is solid for meds and not slushy.... And it was a breeze! Oh ye/me of little Faith! :)

As some of you noticed in the picture of our packing, Ken brought his summer cowboy hat. I wondered about not getting it squished and keeping up with it-but we did. Said it opened a lot of doors for him when he wore it to Morocco to work and speak. Airplane food and service - except on Brussels Air -were average at best. Hoped to upgrade to First class. Had the points. But since our ticket was a Humanitarian ticket we couldn't. (First class even had those bed deals!!Oh Well!) So we were packed like sardines from Dallas to Brussels. When we landed in Brussels it was one of those landings we have heard joked about on Southwest Airlines-"That was quite a bump and I know what y'all are thinking. I'm here to tell you it wasn't the airline's fault, it wasn't the pilot's fault, it wasn't the flight attendants' fault.....it was the asphalt!" Temperature on arrival in Brussels was a wonderful 40 degrees. Felt great after the packed planes. On the last leg of the flight to Kinshasa there were enough empty seats to spread out in this wonderful plane. Sleep is impossible-for me anyway!  ;) Got lots of reading done and watched three movies. From the window we saw the snow draped Alps and a dust storm in Algeria- just like the ones we get in Lubbock! Got all the custom forms for Congo- in French of course- filled out. So then it was just hurry up and wait.

Seated behind us on the plane were two Congolese ladies in full native garb. They were talking softly  in French and what sounded like Tshiluba. So when we stopped in Angola to refuel- must be cheaper there. (The plane was cleaned -vacuum, trash bags, and toilet brushes- while those of us waiting for the passengers headed for Kinshasa and Belgium. were waiting to board!) We asked the ladies where they were from. They were from our part of the Congo. Had a great visit with them. Both times as we landed -in Angola and in Kinshasa- they prayed and sang a hymn softly in Tshiluba. It is a small world after all. ;) Also noticed on the plane the tribal /hierarchy pecking order that we had not seen in a long time. Interesting - in a sad sort of way,

 In preparation for the flight we had heard from folks, read blogs and read the US government hint sites. The warnings of N'djili Airport were consistent. Everything from "things are much better"  to  "Be prepared for... the joke of what is considered going through customs- AKA "How high is the bribe, Mama?, show respect, listen, don't talk back, keep saying:"We are Missionaries- we don't have any money", talk in Tshiluba, and walk through like you know what you are doing and where you are going. All along my Sweet Ken kept saying,"Relax, Lenore! Everything will be fine!"

As we approached Kinshasa the Congo night hit in sudden fashion at six. One minute sunset and the next dark. Really dark!! An equatorial darkness that only the word"black"can describe.  As we taxi I notice native huts/houses just outside the airport fence. We are not in Kansas anymore! We disembarked into that darkness -there are basically no lights except marking the runway. Dark as we exited the plane and approached the pulled up, old fashioned, orange steps - no jet ways. We climbed down the stairs with all carry-ons in tow (Ken a step at a time because of his bad knee) trying to keep together as we were being jostled by the crowds of home bound folks behind us. Then we were herded onto a bus- which has seen many better days, is not air coditioned,  has only one interior light working, is full of people who know the next step is immigration and  all this to only go about 100 yards. Would loved to have walked after hours of air travel. As we get off the bus,we were "encouraged" by the police- with guns- to hurry up into N'djili Airport. As Ken saw the area he was amazed that it has not changed- that part at least- since he saw it fifty plus years ago.Remember those smells I commented about missing? WELL, those at the airport were NOT the ones I was talking about.The smells were a conglomeration of lots of different body odors, food stuff, and "something."

Then the fun began."Immigration- Kinshasa style." All tribal friends and family need jobs-so there are people everywhere helping in the process. Lots of languages. People telling you which lines to get into. So I pick one line and get in it. No real directions. Just observing what others get fussed at for not doing or doing- like cross an imaginary line on the floor.  Folks in other lines are raising voices in displeasure and anger. Some I understand and some I don't. It is finally my turn. From behind the glass he smiles and motions me forward. I hand him all my stuff-passport- open to my picture, my forms from the plane and my vaccination /shot card. "C'est bien, Madame" and he looks at me and then and my picture. Stamps pages and in pretty good English says, "You may go, Mrs. Murray." Next it is Ken's turn. Ken walks up in his Texas hat and goes through the same procedure. Only they begin to talk- in English. Turns out the guy had worked in Houston for Chevron for five years ! The blessings of the Cowboy hat! Next we had to go for the verification of our shots and vaccinations. An old, little medical man just smiled when he saw Ken and his cowboy hat, gave our records a cursory look and waved us through and told us "Good Night." Next, passengers are"free" to go get their luggage and deal with that apparent zoo. This step alone can take several hours- retrieving and guarding your luggage and carry ons. You will be fending off the folks grabbing at your luggage and offering to get  a taxi for you. All for a charge of  course. That procedure is what makes the Internet go rabid with comments about arrival in Kinshasa. Bribes per piece of luggage. Bribes for what ever they want to say you have to pay.

Luckily we were met by Jeffery Travel who handled Protocol for us-arranged for by MPH. The Chauffeur -with a wonderful smile- was waiting just outside of Immigration for us with our names in chalk on a cute hand held little blackboard. He kept us away from the zoo. He took us to wait in their air conditioned lounge area with refreshments, restrooms and a soccer game on the flat screen TV . The others chatted to us in several languages we found in common!.With tears in our eyes, we were thankful we came. They took our papers, luggage tags-- and set off to get our luggage and go through customs for us. (Ken had had me take a picture of our four bags so the chauffeur knew what he was looking for).This Blessing cost only $70- in US dollars- for the two of us- ALL was handled and we were then taken to their van for the trip to MPH.( Methodist Presbyterian Hostel- our home for the next almost five months!) A $70 WELL spent. Bribes alone per bag etc. go for well beyond that plus the taxi fare.

As we were visiting, into the waiting room came the two tall ,pretty Congolese sisters that had been with us on all the planes from Dallas to Kinshasa. We had visited and knew they were home from college in Utah for 6 weeks to see family. One had graduated and the other was a Junior. The vaccination person said their vaccination was "almost too old" and they'd have to meet with the Inspector. So they came to meet their Dad at Jeffrey Travel. MAD does not describe them. " Not right", "They just want a bribe", "Crooked government"... Guess they've been in the US too long and don't want to accept this way of life in the country of their birth. "Well, at least we have our passports. We'll show them.We can just get a new shot card later!" Dad arrives. He asks the lady at desk if there is a back door and out it they all go! :) Next coming into the area  are the inspector and right behind him the luggage man wanting his tip from Dad!! None of them were there.They were hacked ! Almost funny but we put a "Hogan's Heroes" - Sargent Schultz" I know nothing!" look onto our faces.

The airport is 30 miles out of downtown. MPH on the other side of that. So the ride can be a 45 minute to a two hour ride depending upon traffic. It is now after ten PM. We are in the van with the driver - looking sharp in a Safari outfit sort of uniform ,the luggage boy wearing, with pride ,a very noticeable reflector vest,us and our luggage. Next we experience the ride though a town of ten million people. We go past bars and clubs and shops exploding with patrons.They are widening the airport road - and do it at night. No lights! No Machines- just manpower with shovels, wheelbarrows and sweat! We bounce and bump and zig and zag through this town of teeming people -despite of the hour. People are supposed to only cross in Zebra areas ( cross walk areas)  Yeah, RIGHT!!  It's a two lane road. Yeah,RIGHT! Four cars, taxis, mini buses with 15-20 crammed inside, motorcycles and people are all in the two lanes! And the construction workers carrying supplies from side to side. All are blowing their horns and out doing each other in the game of Chicken as they make turns and pass. The cycles blow their horns at vehicles and flit in and out like lightning bugs among them. 30 June Avenue- (Independence Day in 1960) is paved and has lights. Many of the shopping area streets are what's left of pavement-- with huge craters -which all the cars and cycles were dodging or appearing out of in the dim headlights. All was frightening. Now add to this mix people crossing all over the place in the darkness and they are basically the ball in a game of dodge ball with cars! They don't even wear light clothing! Ken had said he wanted to look into getting a temporary license. Changed his mind in less than half a mile!!

We passed the area where Ken family lived when he was here. He recognized the shopping areas  and sports arena.  We saw Dikembe Mutombo's  (NBA player) new hospital built in honor of his mother. Also saw the Government  buildings, Soccer complex and where Ali and Foreman fought. Fun to watch Ken see all of this and remember it all so well..

 

When we arrived at the compound the gate was locked. The driver blows the horn and the sentry unlocks and opens the gate. We tell the driver thanks and bye. Mulumba - the sentry and from our part of the Congo, speaks in Tshiluba and welcomes us- then unloads for us and takes all of our bags to our temporary suite of rooms on the second floor- until Clay and Cindy leave Monday. It has a Queen bed, sitting room, refrigerator, safe, private bath with shower and tub combo and ceiling fans in both rooms. But best of all it is air conditioned!! After barely meeting Clay and Cindy ,we shower and fall into bed.

Thus ends a two day 10,000 mile trip and a War and Peace type entry to the Blog. "Short winded' is not in my vocabulary unless you are talking about running! ;)

First day impressions to follow!


Ken unpacking. Our bed and mosquito net.