60. AH!!! Sweet Home Again! Sweet Home!

 All  were out at MPH to wave goodbye. Neat. Plans were set for a welcome wreath etc. on Dunn’s door. Papa Mata had made us a lunch. I had told Helen to be there before I left and she was actually there at 8:30- she usually mosies in about 10.   Marcia is the Yaya- the oldest girl- after the death of Betty Lou. Their job is to take care of all of the younger kids. If any get hurt it’s her fault! So she mother hened us all through immigration and luggage and protocol. So we were spoiled by YaYa!

Scenes in Kinshasa proper were the same as we headed to Njili Airport.  Saw the rock crushers- they sit and crush -with a sort of pestle -large rocks into 50 cent size rocks. Sit all day for days and make a mountain of rocks and then get another load and start again. Also the Kinshasa version of United Van Lines- a push-push loaded. It is a sort of trailer basket sort of thing for hauling by hand. One hires them to move almost anything! Ladies with “head Bread” (carrying a tub of bread) were selling their bread next to the guy urinating on the wall.  It is such a filthy city of ever present trash. Once we hit the construction area cars were driving anywhere to get into the two lanes over the bridge. They are also trying to build a cloverleaf- but now it is red clay mud and added to the mess and confusion. Since there were no cement barriers -cars were all over – at us, beside us going a different way every other car.  Ambulances were ignored in the traffic- no one moved. But the black, tinted window, flashing lights- Lexus SUV got everyone moving. Police saluted it! Motorcycles zooming everywhere. Seeing the airport area for the first time was a shock. It was bad in the dark on arrival but worse in the daylight. I can’t imagine being the group from Montana that ran at night in that area all the way to catch their plane – with or without a police escort. We got right into the airport with no hassles. Having Jeffrey Travel –whose drivers make the trip many times daily was a blessing. He knew the sneak in areas. Then when we got to the airport our car did not get inspected- guess the bribes had already been paid. ;)) Went to their private AC area to get carry on weighed, passports stamped and wait comfortably. Went to the restroom. New definition of filth. Unisex one- as I was told to go on and enter there were men standing there peeing- the Congolese version of a man who can hit an antelope at 250 yards but can’t hit the toilet or urinal! At least I had a door. Luckily I had taken Kleenex. I don’t think I have enough hand sanitizer with me! ;) Did spot a snack bar- cheese and salami in a baguette "Head Bread". She had hot mayonnaise too- not from heat but sitting out with the flies. Guess two proteins for the price of one! ;)

Travel by plane on a National carrier in a third world country is so different! The plane leaves when they want, they hold the plane for folks- when they want to, cancel when they want to, and bump you for someone else when they want to. Police with machine guns are ever present. Yes, loaded, I asked!  They can re-search you and your luggage at the bottom of the plane’s steps- if they want to!  But real security is a joke. Said we could bring what we wanted through. Then he liked the look of my bug spray for cloth and took it saying I could spray it in the pilot’s eyes. They were talking about the nice big bottle and I did not bother to tell them it is for cloth only and can burn and cause sores on the skin. Paybacks are heck! Weird thing was that they let me keep a small bottle of the same thing!! They let all three water bottles through. Wands and scanners for bags. Then into the waiting room.  They had cooling fan deals but not really working very well since all the security doors to outside were open a good deal of the time The fan near us was not a pleasure because- a man with major BO and wearing a dashiki -was trying to cool off in front of it! Gag!! Ate more of our picnic since we were there way early. Then through screening again to leave for the plane- men in one line and Mamas in anotherfor personal searches.  Man looked at briefcases and a woman looked at my bag asked me to drink a sip of water and took it anyway! Then both lines re-joined so one MAN could up close screen us with a wand that kept not working. Then out to get on a bus to ride 40 yards. Then inspection of bags- at his discretion- again and another wand man!! Little kids screaming, Smoked fish stinking, no live animals and life in a Congo airport as we know it.  Saw more modern clothing than Congolese outfits. Stylish. Men and women have unbelievabaly pointed shoes! Little girl about 10 dressed in a formal off the shoulder formal dress.

Doors to the tarmac were locked until a lady tried to go out the open door and put her key in it. Key would not come out. But while the doors were locked- if you wanted out you went to the door behind the curtains and it was open and you could get out that way. There were a million ways to get to an airplane! Scenes inside were fun to watch as they are at all airports. Women kissing each other three times, men head butting three times side to side, make up and wig bags like long ago, safari suits for many of the men, muslim garb, folks harking wares and were finally going down in price because no one was buying their stuff. Cell phones at every ear including the folks doing security.

Our last Restroom break made the other one look like a palace! And again we paid 50 cents to use the unisex place that they were saying was clean with the cleanser they were walking around with. NOT!! No water in the toilet or urinals. Men peeing again. There was soap on the sink and the blow dryer worked! ;))

Area got hotter as the day progressed. I was past Southern Dewey and we Southern girls are not supposed to get past Dewey. My hair was drenched.  Once we got on the plane it was cooler. Same sepal we get on the planes everywhere. Clear the couloirs/aisles/halls. Until the very end of boarding we were able to have empty seats by us! Lunch was a burger in aluminum foil with a tiny pill dispenser container deal of ketchup and mayonnaise and fizzy pineapple juice and a sealed glass of water. Was good.

The air trip was a little bumpy as we flew towards the interior. Rainy Season storms formed boiling clouds and lightning was screaming across the sky off a little to the right of the plane. Mother Nature was letting us know she knew we were coming home. It was as if she knew we had left the big dirty city and were headed for the grassy plains- green again from the new and frequent rains.

My face was pressed against the window looking for a memory scene of villages below. The plane was full of Tshiluba words at machine gun pace. My ears were able to easily hear- after 4 months- the words-“Home, Food, Family, Funeral, Surprise for Mama, Are we there yet? ;)  

Had to pay a bribe to get Ken in to Kananga. The man said Ken’s visa was no good. It is just like mine but one number different.  Son of a Biscuit! Our protocol guy from here at the station took care of it. Luckily it was not me because the P-nut M&Ms are gone other chocolate from Ruthie and David( Not John- don’t know where that came from—Sorry!!) are in checked luggage,  Patient Panties are wearing thin and I am not sure I would have kept my mouth zipped and the “get a life look” from my face! Got luggage without a bribe- just a tip. Saw our first Sagger- droopy pants- on a Congolese. Funny and pathetic and folks gave him grief- big time and laughed in his face. He was wearing mariachi type pants with the brads on the legs, a cowboy shirt with fringe, a hat like the father in Sound of Music, and strutting like a peacock! Lots of clicking of teeth which is real disapproval. Folks arrived with lots of crying because there was the madilu noise. Baggage guys trying to get and deal with folks grabbing for bags. (Bags were dragged/pulled from the plane by hand on baggage carts. Police everywhere BUT several of the guns I saw were held together with masking tape. Unorganized chaos!

In a car for 5 we had 8 plus luggage and a stop by Pax to get hospital supplies. Chauffeur finally said no more- someone would get it the next trip in. One Passenger was a man that stayed at MPH last week. Small world.

Road to Tshikiji was very washed out. The rains had helped a little with the sand pits. Roads got progressively smaller and worse as we approached the station. By the time we arrived it was all but dark. So unloaded, found and lit candles and flashlights since there was no electricity and generator was to only be come on 7-9 ish. I had progressed from warm to warmer to warmest!

Marcia’s home is so nice and cute. A two bedroom one bath with living room, Dining room and kitchen. Front and back porches.  All of the furniture is Craftsman like and so pretty. Couch, chairs and rocker all with cushions. She has turned it into a home and not a house. Pretty curtains. It is real close to the path to and from the school and hospital so it sounds like they are in the house with us. And of course we can ease drop and understand every word they are saying.

The sentry/gardener was waiting to let us in the gate. He has a great garden with lettuce, kale, corn coming, onions, radishes, egg plant, tomatoes & green peppers. Trees in the yard are mango, avocado and papaya. He uses the short hoe. I remember some missionary at Lubondai being so excited about bringing out long hoes for the workers so they would not have to bend over all day. By the second day all of the handles had been cut off to short!  My culture- My way!

Marcia’s cook had left flowers on the table for us- gardenias, impatients and an orange flower that is sort of poppy looking. He also prepared treats to welcome us home. Mango sauce and plantain chips - the old Kasai flavors we know. Beautiful! Excellent! (It was like tasting again your favorite meal your Mom fixed when you were a child at home!) The Fletchers had asked us over for supper and we had tuna fish casserole, carrots, mango sauce, peas and carrots. Then she surprised us with bellibellies and oatmeal crisps for supper. MMMM good. Taste memories!!

We slept in a double bed beneath a mosquito net hung on the rectangular form- like I had as a little girl -instead of the little round one.  Thumps of mangoes on the metal roof through the night as they fell from the trees also brought memories. No Air Conditioning. No breathing machine for Ken- and he was not too loud-no fan either with no electricity. It was “can’t see your hand in front of your face” dark! (Cool -as I am typing –I  just heard train whistle!!  First one in 4+ months!!) ;)) Anyway, I remembered all of this because Beth Gold asked me to be sure to take paper and write notes so I wouldn’t forget one thing if I ran out of battery power. Of course, another one of you is saying ”where does she find all of these words!” ;)

My first morning in the Kasai was a different chorus of bird calls except the Kingfisher that I recognized from Kinshasa. We are also getting to enjoy the mocking sounds and caws of the two African Gray parrots next door at the Fletchers. Then there was also a rooster, dogs -other than a Basenji that can’t bark-  and goats joining the chorus. Have not seen a single cat!!!

For our first breakfast in the Kasai we had a fresh papaya, granola with all ingredients from here, and home-made cinnamon rolls left by the cook. Before we finished -the welcoming us home continued from last night. They want to shake our hands, give us gifts and say prayers with us. One lady came by with a baby – about 2 or so tied on her back. I spoke to him in Tshiluba. “Mama, we are only teaching him French.”  I switched languages and he spoke to me. So cute. Word is also spreading that we may be going to Lubondai -so now everyone and his cousin wants a ride. We are full is our story after one or is it two and we are sticking to it- I hope!

After breakfast we sat on the back porch. The folks begging get to be too much on the front porch. Because she has finally gotten her yard fenced things are sort of considered hers if they are on this side of the fence. However a stick and a machete can help a mango jump that fence to the other side!;))

The hydro is having major issues and John Fletcher – a surgeon by trade and a mechanic by hobby has been working on it for a week. We get  generator lights from 11-?  until the surgeries are done and again from 7-9PM  until he gets it fixed. He had to make some tools before he could do some of it!

Home is even prettier when you return after a long absence! We are back and some things are gone from sight but not memories. The people are not gone. Their joy at seeing us- “the children of people” in their tribal lore- is awe inspiring! It is just us- Ken and me.  Kueta and Nseya-but to them it is something different! They are indeed thrilled to see, touch and listen to us! And we have never met any of them. I did not even live on this station. But we are home and we are family! Home is the love and excitement in their eyes. We can feel our Congo life begin anew as we see each face!  Seeing that this “long ago home” has survived makes me realize that even though life and buildings will change or no longer be there, our Congo Home won’t! We did leave something here - the land, the heady air, the sunset hour, the PEOPLE… We CAN “Go Home Again!” A part of us is still here! Wow!! Home is indeed a state of mind- for me, it is having Ken at my side as we have made this trip.

All is new and yet not. Different -yet the same. The same- yet different. Our memories are flowing like beads off of a string!

We left here fast and suddenly 53 years ago. We are coming HOME to our yesteryears- where our different memories run rampant. It is amazing what our hearts and minds are feeling. So different from the feelings and sights we had in Kinshasa!

My cute Ken! He took out a chair to the front porch and is visiting in Tshiluba with everyone on the path. Having a ball ! What a guy I was lucky enough to marry!

Sorry this was so long. Have a great weekend!

Love Ya! Me