70. Our Trip From Kananga back to Kinshasa

 

We were to have been on a 2:30 flight. But the airlines called Sunday afternoon and told  ( Congo’s version of customer service?) us to be there by 8:30AM Monday for a 10:00 flight.  It was fine with us since we didn’t want to have any issues to make us miss our Sunday flight to Brussels and from there on home to Texas and PK!!  Since John Fletcher’s wife was also on the same flight, he gave the three of us a ride and Marcia got to have a nice quiet house all to herself by 7:30 AM!!  I guess some important people needed the seats on the later flight. Fine by us- we’d get to miss the 5PM traffic at Spaghetti Junction.

 So I was still in a dress for a few more hours. John’s Toyota Land Cruiser had FOUR passenger doors -as in 1-2-3-4!!, shock absorbers and Air conditioning! One just stepped on the running board and into the back seat area and sat on a complete seat that was actually facing the windshield!  The seat did not attack my dress! Plus the car was clean and washed. Bid Marcia and her staff good bye after hugs and paying a tip according to their “station”- one more than the other. ;)

 We took a different route than we had taken before in our trips to and from Kananga.

This time we went through a village and on a road that had been ok until the horrible rain the other night. The sides are now caving in and horrible ruts have washed into it. But it is still better than the other two we had traveled and a gazillion times better than the road to Lubondai. It costs $7 to go into the airport so John asked if we minded stopping at the gate and letting a baggage guy get our luggage and carry it in for us. Of course we said no. Now, dear Friends, what are you picturing?? Yep so were we! NOT!! Oh, sooo NOT!!

 We are on the edge of the airport. There is a little stand selling cell phones and vegetables. “ Hello, White Mama” the Baba greets me. Then I see the security gate- a bamboo pole and some wire and a policeman. He opened the “gate” and we walk right in. Guess he just knew we were passengers since he asked for no tickets! Ken tips him 50 cents and you’d think we’d given a million! The baggage guys are carrying our luggage on their heads leading and we are walking -single file along a tiny dirt path worn in the grass-through to the front of the airport. So Africa looking! ;) Security? Yea, right. But bribery is down to a science!

 There is no security yet so we leave our luggage with the baggage guys and  we go to sit in the waiting area. Well, a young Babba is sweeping it with a straw hand broom - all done in a stooped position- just like they hoe. We have a seat- trying to stay out of her way.  Some workers come in carrying a bunch of long tangled ropes and begin to untangle them-which they do every time since they just ball them up at the end of the day. They then tie the ropes around metal poles to mark the area to walk to and from the plane area- which no one obeyed when we arrived.

 Meanwhile we look out the open doors and coming across the tarmac are villagers from the village along the edge of the airfield. It is the short cut to the gate through which we had entered. Their heads are all loaded with goods. It is the short cut!  Geese! Security! Got to Love it!

 “Parked” out in front along the edge of the area  where we will walk to get to the plane are two old Bruss Air bi-planes from the 1950s. Reminds me of an old Indiana Jones plane. The cowling is so high one can’t see out to the runway until the tail is up.Pilots use the side windows!

 Next thing to happen as we sit and wait is that two UN fire trucks ride the runway to be sure it is ok since our flight will be the first of the day. Then they left. People continue to cross the airfield.  So no telling if it is still clear from dropped stuff. Guess they too can hear the only approaching plane and dodge it!  The one airport fire truck is not working.-doesn't look like it has in awhile. Flight attendants in red miniskirts are beginning to arrive.

 Another scam at the airport is telling you that you will need another one or two passport pictures for some form and they can do it for you. A young guy approaches Ken and wants to take pictures. Ken tells him I won’t let him pay for it. So he asks me and I tell him if they need a picture I can take it with my phone. He tells me it has to be a passport type picture. So I tell him we had been warned and I had 15 of each of us so we didn’t really need any. He left. People were bringing pineapples and mangoes all packed for travel. At least it was not chickens and ducks.

 Two large room type osculating fans are suddenly being carried out to the tarmac- through one of the many open doors- Security, right!!- plus two long extension cords and a huge generator. You will NEVER, NEVER guess what they were for!  As soon as the plane landed the fans were put by the plane’s tires and turned on to cool them off! (Maybe Arizona needs to do this in the summer??) Gwenda Fletcher told us that neither UN nor US official personnel are allowed to travel on these CAA planes. Lovely. Nor will the USA allow them to enter our country. Geese.

 Cops are everywhere. They are a real joke. Masking tape guns are back- So funny- have that toy gun from Walmart look.  But they are strutting with their guns like an old, over the hill banty rooster – only with such a gun they are so tike the ancient rooster with his tail feathers all missing or gone and still strutting.

 The plane finally gets here- villagers run and clear the airfield- and all is very confused. In the terminal. Arrivals and departure are trying to come and go from the same room since the “Security” workers were all late getting to work and had not gotten the Arrival “lounge” ready. The police are trying to keep arrivals out. A lady pushes by and the cop blocks her older son from going with her. She comes back, grabs the cop’s arm and hits him and pulls her son t on through!  Next to come in is a butler dressed like Mr. French carrying two silver colored carry one size suitcases. His boss is dressed in a double breasted, liver colored suit with gold buttons, orange tie, and an orange pocket handkerchief. Dark glasses. He is also carrying a Lady’s fake, Louis Vuitton , oversized  purse!. Pointed shoes. In US he’d be taken for a manager of ‘Ladies of the Night.” It was hard not to laugh and to keep from asking- “What were you thinking? Did you look in a mirror?” Teeth clicking  in the waiting room showed locals were not impressed either.

 Our protocol guy comes to get us for luggage check with security. He asks me to unlock the first one. I do. Security unzips it part way looks in and tells me I can relock it. I tell him thank you in Tshiluba as I am getting ready to open the second one. “ No, Mama, it’s fine”, and he marks it clear too. He then, without looking, also clears my carryon luggage .We have TSA locks but they don’t have a key in Congo. The guy behind me gets all up upset because I get our things through so easily. It's that southern smile, thank you in their language and acting old. ;) The Congolese traveling with us has two HUGE pineapples and mangoes in his carry on. It is too heavy so they have him remove one of the pineapples and re-weigh it. They declare it under the required weight and give him the cleared tag with kilos on it. Then they have him put the other pineapple back in and off he goes!! Yep. With both pineapples!! ;)) Then it is the sound of strapping tape being pulled and torn. Pulled and torn over and over. One can pay extra and have it put on your luggage to protect it from thieves in transit!! Unreal! It’s Congo!!

 The corruption game gets old in a hurry out here. The bribe game gets even older and in a big hurry for me! All four of us- three whites and one Congolese- are called back to see the man that hassled Ken on arrival. The man is the Director of Migration. When one switches from one town to another they have to and/or can have to check in. (They flat out refuse to believe we don’t have to do that State to State in the US.)

  I'm not a third world girl even after five months. Not enough patient panties in the world to deal with the many colors of gray-these folks live by. It’s this forcing the payment of bribes because they can and folks cower that drives me nuts. In Kinshasa the following warning is posted all over the airport: “The Corruptee is charged the same fine as the Corruptor.“ If I go back again to Kananga I will take a picture of the sign with my phone!!

 “Mr. Murr… ree . Good to see u again,“ he wickedly smiles- like the evil cobra in the cartoon movie. Six phones are on his desk. I’m not impressed and show it with a shake of my head.(found out later he has them set to pretend he is getting text messages and uses making one wait longer as an intimidation tactic.Evil man!) When we walk in he already has Ken’s passport separated. He tells the Congolese to leave. Tells Ken to sit-but there are only two chairs so Gwenda and I sit. He handed Gwenda and me our passports and told us we could leave. She stood up and in French told him he had no honor- or words to that effect. I told him I would NOT leave but would wait with my husband. He made the mistake of handing Ken his passport so I knew we were out of there ASAP!  “Why are you here? Where did you go? When did you get here?” Ken started to answer in Tshiluba. I spoke up and told him with a “look” and in sassy French that he knew good and well when we got there since he had brought Ken to his office 11 days ago and that we were really sorry we did not have time to just sit and “visit” with him today- but  we had a plane to catch. I stood up and let Ken- who was still standing behind me- go first and I followed. And out we went. In perfect English, Evil One says "Have a good trip!" and laughs. No bribe paid. Protocol man- who had been standing in the doorway during all of this- met us with a grin and gave us the rest of our passes and we headed to the plane.

 We then had the “because the form says we have to do this” pre-board checks. So we get a non-working wand, sloppy check of carry-ons, turn in forms and are on the plane. Villagers are still wandering through all of this “ Security!” Unreal! It is what it is!! We left at 11- on time for here.

 "Cheated death one more time" as I say after every landing- except when in Ron's plane. ;)) (This plane was at least not like an Air Mexico we flew awhile back – when going to Mexico was fun and  still safe-with oil running sideways on the  window on our way to Monterrey.) We actually arrive in Kinshasa 20 minutes –good tail wind- early. Jeffrey Travel met us and took us to the AC waiting room while they went to get our bags. Gwenda showed me a secret and clean, free- not counting 50 cent tip-Women’s RR with no men peeing by me. There was water, flushing worked, toilet paper, soap and the doors locked and there were two stalls!! Security man that unlocked it for us stayed outside the restroom, had it cleaned and then relocked it.

 The ride through town was no different. Cars, filth and filth! I still can’t really describe it for you or get a picture that shows it. I guess- go to your city garbage dump area where it is all spread out by huge bull dozers  and imagine that several inches deep all over everywhere  in the town in which you live ! (Well, maybe in DC area you can picture it with no garbage pick-up with the US government shut down-  Oh I’m Sorry! I hadn’t realized it was “open” lately! ;)- ) 

 MPH Sentry greeted us with a big smile and we got the three hugs from all inside to welcome us back -was so sweet! When we got to MPH Cindy had kept lunch for us. Yea Cindy!  And Bless her Heart, she had turned the AC on in our room for me!! ( We Managers have to stick together!)

 It was a two blanket night for Ken and just a sheet for me! Lovely. No real plans for the day- just RNR!  Breakfast of French toast. Good. Lunch will be fried chicken and tonight will be Hamburgers or Sloppy Joes. Cindy asked us if we would like to come back next August for their vacation and I told her “No ,thanks.” So the job is open. ;) Contact Cindy and Clay!

 I am going to post this and then try to do pictures. Hopefully……

 Have a great week!

Love ya! Me

69. Several of You Asked What was Kinshasa Like?

 

Kinshasa…Where

Where I have lived for almost five months.

Where almost eleven million pairs of trampling feet move day and night.

Where there aren’t more than six traffic lights in the whole city.

Where the children seem to play happily in the filthy streets.

Where people sell Kleenex and beg at every corner where the traffic stops to dodge other cars.

Where older ladies dress in Congolese garb and the young ladies dress in the tight fitting  jeans of the 21^st Century.

Where almost everyone - rich or poor- has a cell phone to his ear.

Where blue and white uniformed students share and switch schools at noon.

Where traffic obeys no rules, slowly “flows” with no rhyme or reason-and yet, one sees no road rage!

Where a serpent shaped river separates the two Congos.

Where car horns play a constant, single tone symphony twenty-four hours a day.

Where there are old and/or empty buildings juxtaposed to new and modern ones.

Where I can go to town and no one knows me except at a  selected few grocery stores!

Where I am in the middle of a Third World country that doesn’t  even realize it still is one in so many ways.

Where people come in every color -between the “colors” of white and black.

Where filth from the street drainage ditches- used as a garbage cans- flows into the city’s canals, on into the Congo River and then into the Atlantic Ocean.

Where bruised from travel and over-ripe bananas, pineapples and mangoes sweet as honey and baguettes in a bowl or eggs in open 60 count vat are balanced on a head and offered for sale.

Where dawn is greeted by many birds and dusk falls in a sudden fashion.

Where the one good street is Boulevard 30 Juin and the other streets are guaranteed to be a challenge to drive.

Where the city is gritty in Dry Season and sticky in Rainy Season.

Where most building and road construction work is done only by hand!

Where taxis and buses ramble and rumble 24 hours a day.

Where those who hawk their wares at The Market of Thieves will haggle for a price- until both parties are happy with the deal!

Where people with bundles on heads fight for road space with cars, other people, motor bikes, bicycles, taxis, busses, wheel chair bicycles and push pushes.

Where at night the city dresses in her fancy jeweled lights and for a few hours the filth disappears.

Where people of all stations of life “fight” for survival and many are in the same spot for months- day and night- it is their home!

Where people always greeted us with a warm smile and a hello in some language!

Where public restrooms are just off the street-in the public grassy and plant areas.

Where millions of workers pour into and then out of the city every morning and evening.

Where ship merchants, dealers of questionable items, non-profits, Embassies of the world, various church groups and the UN all share the same city.

Where new and old governments-peaceful or not-commence and end –for this country.

Where MPH and her workers made our stay a blessing.

Where I was able to “host“ and get to meet people from all over the world.

Where the “fancy” restaurants and staff can rival any in the US- and prices were not that different.

Where, if you go to enough stores -and have on your Patient Panties- you can usually find anything you want- or it is there next week after you have given up!

These are the images that fill my memories as I think of the city where I spent one special summer and fall.

I’ll never forget you, Kinshasa!

68. What A Difference A Day Makes-- Well,Two Days!

Went to bed to the sounds of an awesome Congo Thunderstorm! It rattled the timbers. Then this morning it’s pretty again and the birds are puddle bathing and splashing. Nature out here is still so fresh- not polluted. And so loud- or it that because there is none of the noise of civilization disturbing the beauty? Humm.

I have lived on Alive since our return from Lubondai and knees all but refused this morning. But “we” are on the go and I want to write all of you again. Forty eight hours after the trip to Lubondai has given me pause time. Reflection time. Thanksgiving time. Distance time.

I should have maybe waited  a day or so to write and waited until I had recited several times to myself- Isaiah 40:31- “…They that wait upon the Lord, shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; and they shall walk, and not faint.” And my part -Teach me Lord, teach Me Lord to wait!!

So today I don’t need to describe everything so you can see it and experience it with me as I did it. I won’t spend 10 plus hours on this thing writing and two more editing before I hit send and still catch that it should have been -15 miles to the Falls and not 15 minutes! ;)  I want to share my reflections from early this morning as I waited for the other two in the house to wake up- or admit that they too were awake and just staying quiet!

The trip was a true blessing for all three of us. Ken was delighted to see improvements and life coming back. Not overnight but coming.  Mama Luxe is going to continue to improve the economy of Lubondai and that will improve the infrastructure. She has built a gorgeous, snow white, all new Magazine in NTolo’s village. Marcia was last there 30 years ago and was surprised it’s still only the Marks and dental area that are so deteriorated. The areas around each of the houses being lived in were “cared for” by Congolese standards.  I was glad I came. I was thankful for those of you who had come before me and sent pictures- so I was not shocked. What I have found weird is I still see it the old way of my memories but can turn the page in my mind’s eye and see it in its current condition. I would love to go spend six months there and get it all whipped into a cleaner shape. It’s not a mountain of work! If someone would act as overseer the villagers could clean it up and then they could continue to mimic. Almost no one there saw it all clean and mowed so they can’t even “go back” – since they don’t know what that was all “cleanish”!! Oh well- just an observation.

The car- through the grace of God- got us there and back. ;)   We would not have been able to go without it. Will I ever forget all of the details I shared about it? No, NEVER!  And I am sure Bob and Kristi see it the same way- it gets them there! (I still hope you do get a new one on your return and will watch your blogs to see a picture of it!)

So far I have been to five towns, stations and/or cities in this country. Folks go on and on about the vast natural resources that are being stripped. But the greatest resource of all is the people. They are what I treasure meeting all over this huge country. They have pride and still have hope! They are survivors of wars and other things about which it is to horrible to speak. But if one keeps looking at the bad, the losses, the destruction etc we miss that little mustard seed that really is growing still- started by our various parents and denominations years ago! Somewhere in my “churching” or schooling  I heard that our destination will be the same whether we “ travel by despair or hope” and locked this thought away in my memory bank.

 I am depending on these people. I have hope for Congo because of the little folks I played with at Lubondai. I keep picturing all these little kids playing some game with me as their Pied Piper.  Hopefully I am now part of their special memories! I think as adults we have- hopefully- learned that life has never given us what we expect or what we think we deserve. The things our parents did for others is their great legacy and by their shirt tails- ours too! ;)

So four closing thought from those much more word and thought gifted than I.

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift of God, which is why we call it the present.”
― Bil Keane

I don't think of all the misery, but of the beauty that still remains.”
― Anne Frank, The Diary of a Young Girl

They say a person needs just three things to be truly happy in this world: someone to love, something to do, and something to hope for.”
― Tom Bodett (And I’ll leave the light on for you!- as he always says on the advertisement!)

67. O What a Beautiful Morning! Oh What a Beautiful Day!

I have 12 pages notes -some written on the road but most after my shower on arrival home. I don’t even know where to begin. Or how to begin. Or, if –for some of you- to begin. So I will just be Old Blue Eyes – or is that Ole Lenore and “Do it my way!” So here I go! Get a cup of coffee, tea or an Adult Beverage- as Kara calls them- a very comfortable chair and get ready! It’s really long as I look back at it now. Sorry! Cliff Notes version- I had a great trip to Lubondai!

We scheduled “Ddietuku 3”- as it is called in Tshiluba (Wednesday) for our trip to Lubondai. Only Sunday gets a name- Dia Luminga. Rest are all 1-6!  The months all have neat meaning names- January – Moon of hot weather, February- Moon- of second planting, March-Moon for dividing out the hoes and when planting is forbidden because insects will destroy the young plants, April- Moon of heavy rains, May- Moon of the Woman’s wind- moderate dry season, June-Moon of the Man’s wind, July- Moon of the male lion and for killing antelope, August- Moon of the female lion and of cold fog, September- Moon for first planting of the rainy season and for eating new sprouts, October- Moon of half grown crops, November- Moon of small beginning of  flying ants, December- Moon of big season of flying ants. I did not put the Tshiluba part because I thought the translations were so pretty and did not want Marcia to have to spell it all out for me!

We had arranged for the car with some “head guy’s” second guy- in Kananga on Monday- to take the three of us, two gardeners plus a Chauffeur to Lubondai. Always remembering- It is Congo-and a larger name or larger bribe gets the fatted calf -so to speak. So we were not counting on the car until we saw it.

So we  three are up at varying times from 4-5 AM, breakfast, picnic-checked to be sure ants did not find it, Dramamine, 10 gallons of water, every medical kind of stuff Marcia and I can think of plus Ken’s knee brace just in case- because of the un-mowed terrain we will encounter, knowing it will be a really rough road trip because of the torrential rains during the night, and the two gardeners-ours and the one next door- Bilolo and Tshiyoyo- arrive at 6 for our 6:30 departure- they are use to working with missionaries. Chauffeur and car arrive a little before seven- which for Congo is on time! ;)) I will have to use a bunch of Tshiluba in this blog so I will be challenged- I have enough trouble with English spelling!! In Kinshasa I only had the names of grocery stores and restaurants to share with you. Dressed for travel- dresses and arms covered. We all have hats, toilet paper, Wet Wipes and Kleenex.(It’ll be weird to be back in the US and not have all of this type of stuff in my purse- and boy do I need a new purse! I will bury this big orange one with the highest of “surviving five months in a Third World” honors!) 

 We were told on Monday that we’d have the head guy’s car. Well, if that is what a head guy drives… deliver me from getting past “serf”! It arrived after sun up- probably would have been better if he had arrived with it at major DARK thirty! I can’t even… I don’t know where to begin to… there is no way to…. “Houston, We have a problem” does not even begin…Hello Moses- or words to that effect…Son of a Biscuit…. Get the idea! I am past speechless- and for me that is says it all!! Ok here is the best I can do without you having the benefit of the olfactory experience!  Imagine yourself in a wrecking yard of - use to be white, Toyota Land Cruisers. Now see the filth of the outside of the car. Now see the totally slick /bald tires. Now open the passenger side door- from the inside handle- of course. Now hit the seat deal that makes the front passenger seat fold open- and I’ll be hornswoggled, it worked!!  It will not move forward -of course! Now step up on the running board and look in. Dipppp Stick!! All of the interior lining or whatever you call that stuff on the walls and back doors is gone. Some of the floor is open to the ground with scattering of floor mat still surviving. Now to the “seats.” I know the purpose is to also be able to use these vehicles as an ambulance but COME ON!! Who in their right mind designs seats that only ride sideways in a car that goes forwards??? Just looking to cause BARF city!  And one is supposed to do what with their legs? There is No way a woman had anything to do with the design of this….. this!! The seats are all but gone. By seats, I mean the stuff a human is supposed to sit on! The metal bar formations of the seats are there, some foam, parts of the seat vinyl and views to the floor and also to the ground because the rest is NOT there. Now step/crawl over the front seat- but get yourself into this thing by way of the front door. Freeze in your tracks. Cover your nose and your mouth. Try not to gag! Call to Ken and Marcia to go back into the house and get towels and every form of air freshener they can find. Try to back out but you can’t- your skirt has gotten caught. The stench of urine- not old but recent - in the back seating area of this vehicle is beyond description. No diaper pail from days of when I used cloth diapers, no Porta Potty at any Fair Grounds or at a Sporting event, no toilet area in any boy’s dorm, well, NO where that houses urine can top this smell.

Oh My Dear!  Bless My Pea Pickin’ Little Southern Heart!! Ken gets there and helps with my skirt.  I am trying to hold it together and not blow a gasket. Sweet Marcia comes with towels and air freshener and gets her first glimpse of the interior. We use the freshener and spread out the towels over air and gunk.  But then we just have an air freshener/urine/urine/urine smell. Also, did you know that the longer you and your hot body sit on remaining rubber foam soaked with dried-ish urine, the more you begin to smell like urine? Well, don’t try it! Take my word for it!! We opened the windows- the floor is already sort of open. ;)) Lee, I was wearing my pretty black Travelers tank dress and pink sweater I bought with you at Pawley’s Island at Chicos! I have them both out for Tatu Kangodie to wash- he was trained by Nancy Hull to cook and clean and he is GREAT!! Between the smell-and snaggy chair, it may never be the same! So I’ll have to just come see you and go shopping again!!  Next, Marcia crawls in through the back door –at least a 36 inches high step and there is no running board or stool to use to get in and out. Just a trailer hitch that isn’t any lower. I know that from now on I will also have to get in that way too because the front entrance is beyond bad!

At 7:00 we head out. At 7:15 we were stopped at a government check point. Lots of clicking of teeth by the chauffeur did not bode well as he exited the car. Came back for car forms. Came back for his wallet. Came back to talk to neighbor’s gardener and take him in with him. Came back out and told Marcia it would cost us 5 Thousand Francs ($5.00) plus more bribe money “at our discretion- of course”.  Marcia and Ken both said “NO! Turn around and we will go home to Tsikaji.” Both men went back in. Tshiyoyo told the guard that he went this route all the time with Dr. Fletcher to work at the Hydro and they never charged them!  They also pointed out that there was another way to go and we could just turn around and go that way.  Also explained who Ken and I were and why we wanted to see Lubondai. We finally got by without paying anything. Just wasted 15 minutes!!

So down the road we head. For some reason the little Song “The Wheels on The Bus Go Round and Round” began to run through my mind- especially the part about the “ kids on the bus go up and down!” From then on my tush did not touch the seat and our heads did not leave the roof! I don’t even think the helmets and harnesses of NASCAR could help on these roads. I took a video but if I showed it to you, you would just think I was in the car being silly and shaking my camera! I would go to Lubondai again with no problem, but I would never go on that road again unless there is some monumental reason which I cannot even begin to fathom at this point- less than 24 hours after traveling the road! I kept thinking- we have to go back and we have to do it today! I also have several huge bruises developing on my arms, legs, - can’t see my tush but landing on that metal bar as many times as Marcia and I did, we have to be covered. Don’t want to think about my poor bruised kidneys. Would be a great place to open up a Preparation H stand because these truck drivers, cycle drivers and the few car traffic drivers need it in this country! Ken also commented if that ride there and back did not knock a kidney stone loose again it’ll be a miracle.

Remember because of the design of this mode of “transportation”, those of us in the back “seats” have two view choices- out the window across from us- because between holding on and trying not to land on the metal bar that is pretty much all that is left of our seat-or out the front windshield between Ken’s and the chauffeurs heads. Oh- I forgot to tell about the filth inside- no windows have been washed in forever. So they all have that glazy grime stuff. Trash and stuff are on the floor – and we lost some of the trash on the way through the holes in the floor. Unbelievable! The seats are so grimy that just holding on turned my hands yucky brown/black. Don’t even want to think what I had on me anywhere from heel to toe!  Told you earlier I didn’t think I had enough hand sanitizer. Oh Dear!! Ken finally has the internal fortitude to ask- who usually uses this car and why did we not get another one. (Probably because he was afraid I was getting ready to ask “Who in the H--- drives this piece of crap?”)- Bob and Khristi Rice was the answer. “ARE you kidding me!” must have appeared on my face before I could keep him from seeing it in the rear view mirror as I asked Marcia if I had understood his Tshiluba correctly!!! I had!! But then he quickly said that they are getting a new car. Thank goodness. I started to say this car beats walking- but I’m not sure!! So I know the car- well I hope- did not get this bad since y’all left on furlough – or whatever it is called now- so I am sorry you had to travel in this as hard working missionaries. No one should have to. NO ONE!! If you do not get a new car, send all of your supporting churches my description of your car and that should do it!!;))

Ok, let’s look at the Kasai I saw out of the open parts of the windows! Still the beautiful country in which we grew up! Everything is green and lush from the recent rains of Rainy season. The roads in this area all the red clay/sand. The roads have been dug by shovels and all by hand. Everyone still waves and the kids still run and yell “Muoyo”/Hello after the car.  Now they also yell “Muoyo, Mutoka”/ Hello Whitie!”The Congolese in the car all commented on how that use to never be done! Women are in the fields or on the way with their hoes balanced on their heads. The Yaya oldest sister has been left at home to care for the others no matter her’s or their ages. Amazing. Driving through the villages with just kids- little kids all over the place. There are the men sitting around like I also remember form long ago! Still “ just ‘a ‘sittin’! Heck of a job if you can get it!! It’s a cultural thing! Cute view- got no picture of it- little boy- maybe 18 months to 2 strutting-naked as a jay-along the road waving at us. Oh, he was dressed! He had a silver pot on his head! ;)) Also saw for the first time  this trip little naked ones with the string ties around their bellies to show when they are hungry and need to be fed again.

In the next village more police. We did not stop!! Drove on quite a few huts and stopped and asked some Babas/ women headed to the fields what was going on. Drug bust of a motorcycle drug runner. Found out they are now growing Indian Hemp up near Bulape. The cycle gang sellers are now all over the interior area of the Kasai. Sad!  

Some of the huts are sticks with mud fillings while others are out of local kiln and sundried brick. Almost all we saw along the road had palm and grass roofs. We dodged chicken, goats, sheep and dogs. Really did not want to hit a goat. That would have cost us a bunch of money. Lots of little goats all over the place and trying to figure which way all of these critter would turn to run as the car approached  was a challenge!! Saw a man carrying clothes into the bush to sell. Sort of a Dillards, no…Target, no…Walmart, no… Dollar General, no… Goodwill delivery man. It was all hanging on a long pole being carried on his shoulders with frequent stops to be sure they weren’t falling off the ends of the pole.

Ladies, as you know, men traveling along any road can just stop and use the tinkletorium by the door or a bush. Well, after an hour of bladder jogging Ken asked the driver to stop and out he went. I am dying in the back seat. But there is not enough money in the world to get me to hang this white tush out for the entire car to see! No way!! ;) So it was grin and bear it and wonder about the value of Depends out here on a trip like this for ladies!! Not! Can’t even begin to think of that option. But thanks to Jimmy Shafe we knew there was a Catholic Mission that would let us use the restroom. By that point the condition and type was not even a consideration. Just inside of at least three walls was becoming more and more acceptable in my mind. Maybe just two walls! Just get my bladder and me there to the convent in time!!  Before we get to this town of Bunkonde we have to go down to the river and back up to the town. This was the very WORST part of the whole trip - going and coming! Maybe it was just bladder…no, on the way back was just as bad!! As we came into town there was a herd of cattle just strolling along being driven by three guys on foot. They kept trying to get the cattle to move but those “doggies kept a moseying along,” Also, in town Ken and I saw something we had never seen before here in Congo. A grown woman hiking her skirt and in the center of town barely off the road going to the “major” restroom. Never! I’ve seen naked women except for a string around their waist, naked from the waist up but NEVER going to the bathroom in public!!

 This Catholic Mission is part of the Sisters of St. Joseph- weird- so was the hospital that Ken worked for awhile in Lubbock!!  This one was started in 1897. The head Sister that is there has been there since 1954. She was so gracious and led Marcia and me to the restroom in the convent. A young man was filling the barrel with water to get water out of to make the toilet flush and she made him totally leave the building so we would feel comfortable. Then she escorted us in. Y’all it was a real, clean toilet with a door and toilet paper- though we had brought our own. The grounds were gorgeous. There were plenty of pretty plants and flowers. Lovely statues that- our good friends, the Selenskys, in Comfort, Texas could name for us. I only recognized the central one of the Virgin Mary. I’m pretty sure it was not all the Stations of the Cross- I’ve seen those in south Texas. Anyway a gorgeous gated compound with the school right down the road. The Sister was so sweet and polite to all of us and wanted to be sure we did not need something else. Gracious to a fault!

Unfortunately the next thing was to get four of us back into the back of the “Urine Mobile” and the driver and Ken into the front two seats of the car- piece of cake for them. On getting into the car description--- The smell had followed me on my clothes. Gag!! I finally was able to get a leg up onto the back area but there were no handles to pull with. So Ken- heck I hope it was Ken!- pushed, others giggled and I was in for the next exciting part of the voyage to Lubondai.

The trees began to change a little. More of those- flat top trees as I call them, more palms and more Mangoes and some of these were hanging over the roads. Marcia reminded us of how when we were all riding in the back of a pickup and would approach a low hanging tree, those standing with the clearest view would yell, “Low bridge,” and we’d all duck!

As we got closer to Lubondai the guys in the car- from Lubondai- pointed out the valley path to Lubondai, the path to Katende Falls- (Just asked Marcia’s cook to spell that for me and he reminded me it was not the Lady Path- to the left but the Man Path to the right as we leave and go through Ntolo’s village. ;) I had forgotten that! ) On Sunday afternoons we use to bicycle ride the 15 minutes to the falls and play in the white water because we knew we were safe from crocodiles and hippos! Ken also asked the name of another village and reminded us of going there with the high school and singing and Lois Piper taking her accordion!

“There it is Mama N’Seya!” they all chimed in as we could see the roofs of Lubondai off on the opposite hill. It was still there. I was anxious. I had seen y’alls pictures from the trip in 2006 so I knew that 7 years later could make a big difference. The “Gate” was no longer there. But as we entered I was floored. The first three on the right- guest House, Muambi’s and the Jackson homes looked new. Basically they are!! Mama Luxe  temporarily lives in the Jackson house while hers is being built. That one and the others will be turned back to the Lubondai church- totally redone once all of hers are done. All she is doing on the station will belong to the station. Satelite dish, four John Deer tractors, bull dozer and dump truck are out back of her house. She is a lady from N’Tolo’s village that is a big trader and has decided to work in her area. She clears the fields for the villagers, they toil the fields, she pays for the harvests and sells them all over! Win, win for all. She has also gotten the schools- Primary and Secondary going and is using CS and will improve it next. Has already put in Re-bar security in areas.

But we had to ‘Check in” with the Station Doctor. We had told no one we were coming – on purpose. None of us wanted a big show! (Our Chauffeur was very disappointed because that meant they would not have killed a chicken for our lunch.) ;)) We stopped at the old Cousar/ Rule/Nelson house. Word was quickly sent to the hospital to let the doctor, Jeff Mukendi Katamb, know we were there.

Within minutes children came out of the woodwork! Loads of them. Smiling, Clapping and just totally going nuts! Ken asked what I wanted to do and I wanted to leave the Cousar house and go to the hospital and then walk the whole station and end up back where we started. So out we headed. Of course I had already seen across the tall grass my home of long ago. It was there! Really there! Wow what a feeling of joy I had. Was it nice and neat and all together? No,of course not. But it was there!

So off we headed. The kids kept asking for money. Where was the electricity? Where was the water?  I told them I was from Texas and those things were not in my power. But being their new friend was. I grabbed a hand and off we headed- right where I knew the hospital was!! Went right by Aunt Nollie McDonald’s house Still there. Oh what paint could do for it and all of the houses! Toured the hospital. Saw the Internal Medicine ward, Maternity Ward,and Pediatric ward. Doctor explained they had a small patient number because of no water, electricity or medicines they need. No patient, no income so..so…Vicious circle.  Chicken and egg story.  He does surgery and stuff with a battery operated head light like we buy from Lowes! Ladies were outback cooking for the few family members they had in the back ward where I did not go. No lights so it was dark inside.

As news and word of our presence spread other station leaders joined us.  The hospital Administrator , Hadibunga Mande from Lubondai joined us next. He and Ken are the same age and he remembers Ken as a Boy Scout. They had a Jamboree and had it set up where both troops could earn badges. At the end of the evening both troops walked from the soccer field behind our house back up to CS. Once there, the Congolese troop started dancing and the CS boys joined in and had a ball. He and Ken just laughted and laughed at the memories. The third to join in was Pastor Pasteur Mbenga. Said folks we  were named after are all dead and Kasonga Paul’s family all gone to Kinshasa, the States or dead. So the three of us had a private escort. And got their side of stories as we walked. Pastor remembered that Dad was Industrial and then came back out as Evangelistic. Remembered Mom and her accordion and working with the Women and Girl’s School. They remembered my brother Les being born. The first boy after several girls. So he got a chief’s name as I recall- Ilunga.

Now the kids are everywhere!! Headed back up the station on our side of the station. Metzel house still there. Needs mowing- as do they all. Missing window glass on almost all homes- but geese where do you go to get it replaced and even if you brought it in a car it’d be in the same condition as the windows when it arrived over the road I came on!! Then my home. The fireplace on the outside to heat the water for the bath is gone. The stairs to the attic- where I got many a horrible permanent are gone. Wonder if they know there’s an attic up there! Four men were on the front porch- much smaller porch than I remember it! I asked- and was backed up by the doctor and Hospital Administrator -if I could please go in. Dining room and living room both there and still same use. I could see and place our old furniture. Weird what the mind can recall.  Office on front right as face house still in use. I had hoped the border of sketches that Stewart Marks drew would still be there- or at least some of the sketches. But no. Then down the hall to the boys room and it was still in use. Kitchen a mess but used -with a fire on the floor. Mom and Dad’s room bath and mine in worse shape and not used. Very dark inside. I’d use my phone flash light, stop take a picture and the repeat and go on. No tub. But top of high water box for toilet still way up high! ;) Wood where the window was so I got some light. I could see well enough to” place in my mind” my bed and mosquito net, my armoire next to the front window under the mango tree by that window- where Dad Killed a black mamba. My mahogany Toy chest under the other window- now in our home at PK and my dresser against the bathroom wall. It was so much smaller than I remember and then for all of my things fitting in there. I had an all white eyelet spread, dust ruffle etc.  Walls were still blue! Memories. Wow. As I came back into the LR and DR area two little Persian kittens came up – an all white one and an all black one. Descendents of Button my favorite Persian gray cat!  Isn’t life funny. I’m so glad I came. Told you I’d be ok! ;)

No Tshonde house anymore and the drum finally rotted. They now call folks to worship- they said -with a bell instead of the old tire rim and a pipe. Next up was the church. But as we left my house I began to interact with the kids. It was a repeat back and forth. So I said Muoyo/ Hello and they repeated it back. So I said it two times and they repeated. Then three, how are you? My name is N’Seya. You are my new friend. Then I asked if they knew “Jesus Loves, Me-“ and “Hands and Feet” and got an “Of course, Mama N’Seya.” So we did renditions of those as we walked to the church. In I went with all of my kids dancing all around me and clamoring for attention one on one! WE did this all around the whole station and all the way back to the Rule house!

The church has changed- but you all know that. The big front part that held the second story for evening church with the missionaries is all gone. What is left is ok- not the same- but ok. Inside are lots of the old pews and the old pulpits and the same painting in the wall at the front! Neat!

I knew to expect the next two to be the worst of all because of your pictures. And they were. The Dental office, Dental guesthouse and the Marks/ Davis home. Something weird with that. I feel either the brick, builder, both missing roofs or something. For both to have the same issues and be so much worse than the others seems off kilter. Just my opinion.

Then Jackson, Muambi and CS guest houses. All great because of Mama Luxe as they call her. Then across to the viewing stand. Airport not there for any landing I want to make! But can’t be any rougher than the road trip I just made!! Juke Joint building still there. Then the dorms and center of CS. Mama Luxe is doing them next was the word. Kids are still surrounding me and chanting. I yell to Ken, ”Ken, take a picture of that!” and they repeated it after me. The Congolese adults about died laughing. Ken found the water tower but no pump so all water is carried up to the station. The shop where he and Harry and Phillip and others worked is not there but the spot is! Ken was having a ball at the CS areas because that is where he spent his time. Found the areas where we use to have to “ work in the garden” for demerits. As always mine was overgrown but Ken’s was cleared and growing corn!

CS is now a High school where they can get two majors in Biology/ Chemistry or Teacher training. High school is 6 years long. Saw the auditorium where we had prom, the Senior Play, graduation and stuff. The palm tree against which I’d lean my bicycle after riding up from the station and where I’d tie my monkey was still there. A whole lot taller. They still beat the chalk erasers against the building. Wonder if they play “Annie Aye Over”? All were in blue pants or skirts and white shirts and blouses. They and their teachers wanted to practice their English on me. Glorious time. My little ones were fascinated. So I had them sing for the big boys and girls.

Dibule Mutshe tree was all gone- hole was there. That read or blue headed tree lizard scared the heck out of me. Especially at night on the way home from Juke Joint on Friday nights and I could not  see where he was!! Yucky tongue. The kids love my sharing that story for them. What was so neat was that they figured out I wanted to take pictures of the house without them in front. So they’d wait and then I’d take a picture of them and share it. That just sent them into gales of laughter to see each other in the pictures!!

Then the McLean/ Jung/ Sthreshley’s house. Hospital administrator lives there. Still looks good. I remember Aunt Fran’s Crotons- orange, yellow and green plants on their front porch.  Then the Pruitt’s house and it was still good where the older kids tried to teach me to play bridge and Bobby played the piano. The Cleveland/JK Millers Home also ok. The Industrial School is still there and Mama Luxe is fixing it up already. Then the Single Lady’s house- where missionary babies were born. Then  we were back at the Rules/ Nelson/Cousar House. The doctor had banana and p-nuts etc for us. I remember putting on the Circus on the porch of the Rules house. I was the fat lady one time (lifejacket under my dress) and Gypsie another. The Round table was still in the dining room!  My little ones were hanging in the door and on the LR window ledges peeking in.

 Quick Memories/Impressions

Everything was smaller than I remember- the station and the houses. It is not mowed  but neither is Tshikaji! I was so pleased with what I saw everywhere and also in my house. Would I have liked the other three rooms to be whole too? Sure!! But it was still there. Wow!! I did not go in any other homes or ask to go in.

Aunt Carolyn teaching Water and me. She sent me a birthday pineapple every year! She and my dad were blood brother and sister. Straight transfusion in the OR. Mother Murray/ Aunt Betty had a major surgery at Lubondai in the tiny OR I saw and Dad Murray/ Uncle Glenn ate his meals with us. Who knew what time would bring for our two families. Uncle Kemp Hobson being brought in with parts of him in baskets for the doctors to try to save! And they did!  He was the preacher at the tiny Fellowship church on the  left side of the last little bend in the road on the way into Montreat for years!  

The children were a delight. Those that had headed on home while we ate yelled –“Muoyo, Muoyo, Muoyo.” as we drove by! Sweet! That’s a memory I will hold dear!

Surprise! The chauffeur had agreed- I’m sure he got $$ under the table- for the doctor’s wife, child and his sister- used as a nanny- to ride back with us. So now the “Urine Mobile”  has a big suitcase a big tote bag and three more people in it. Now there IS no leg room. Little one goes to sleep. When she wakes she says she needs to go to the bathroom so the nanny holds her in her lap and tells her to go! If I’d have been paying attention I would have stopped the car. So Nanny and child were were a smelly. But who could tell!!

We did not stop for the Restroom at the Convent on the way home. I take that back- we stopped by some grass for the guys! Wanted to beat the dark and the rain we all could see was on the way.  With bald tires there is probably no way we could have held traction. I did not want to spend the night in the Urine Mobile for any reason.

Scenes of villages were so right with my memories and so green. The bridges were great! We crossed the Lulua, Moya, Lubi and one other. Naked ladies cleaning and washing clothes in each of the rivers we passed. Mothers were nursing babes held in their  arms, held on her side, and on backs and still nursed as I remember from long ago! ;)

The road was full of bicycle traffic and ladies - with their heads loaded with stuff. The bicycle guys are fascinating to me. Loaded full. Walking in flip flops and pushing up the hills and fighting the force of gravity on the way down the hills. Amazing strength their legs must have!!

We made it home. Thank the Good Lord! The cops opened the blockade and waved us through- SMART move on their part!! Got home and unloaded. Stripped out of my urine outfit and hit the hot shower. Washed and washed!! Put Witch Hazel on all of my sore areas.  Within thirty minutes of getting home it began to POUR.

So.”Mission Accomplished.” Lubondai blog done! Started at 7:30 AM and with a break for lunch I have finished at 4:14 PM.   Now pictures and you will just have to be patient. ASAP. Congo Friends you have basically seen them from others before me.

So thanks for reading. Have a great weekend! We leave back for Kinshasa in Monday afternoon.

Love Ya! Me

For those of  you not on Congo Connection – which includes me- Ken wrote the following as I was finishing up the blog. And he keeps trying to tell me he can’t write! Ha!

 Lenore is working hard on her blog for the Lubondai trip with Marcia and me. This morning like a ton of bricks it hit me. You guys my age have heard me say a million times "we weren't Missionary's " we were just children of Missionary's.
Being in Kinshasa, Kanaga, Ndesha, Tshikaji and now returned from Lubondai . Guess what? You (we) may not of been teaching, preaching, building, Doctoring or any other "Missionay" jobs. Your legacy is here. The stories these Congolese are telling about you is Amazing. Their parents and them were your playmates. They watched you and imitated you (that's scary thought) and they saw Gods love in you as in no other way. Everywhere I have been they have talked about you individually and collectively . Probably most of you realized this long ago. Playing over the blessing in my mind I recieved while at Lubondai just hit. I am not a writer, just ask Uncle Morris , the Late Aunt Liz and all my other teachers. You all had to help me get out of CS and elementary school. Lenore is such a blessing to me as is my Yaya Marcia. Love
Ken

66. Day Trip to Lubondai

 

Day Trip To Lubondai

Lenore Murray 2013

Wow! What a day!

What can I say?

To see this station we’d had to go a long way.

We got up really early to get underway.

The sky turned beautiful colors from multi shades of gray.

Only 105 kilometers- by Congo standards- is very far away.

No cars on the road so we-minus ,chickens, goats, ladies and bicycles-always had the right of way.

The sand and mud in the “road” often made driving the car the devil to pay!

Because Lubondai is off the beaten track, no one had bothered to pave the way.

We all three knew we would have deal with come what may

Slowly but surely through the rough roads the car plowed away.

Villagers waved and finally got out of our way.

When we had to stop in a village- in the mirror of the hubcaps the kids did dance and play.

The palm, mango, avocado, coffee and papaya trees in the gentle breezes did sway.

As if to welcome us home- on our short day’s stay.

The village scenes- that matched my memories- took my breath away.

Former homes and Central School –not as bad as I feared-showed age and neglect’s decay.

The  many Children and I sang “Jesus Loves Me” and with other word game songs did play.   

We had a lunch of our picnic and the doctor and wife brought more foods as a buffet.

But we had a “get home before dark or rain” schedule so we could not delay.

The day was an array of memories that have now turned into a Special Bouquet!

 

Love Ya! Me

65. The Best Laid Plans Of Mice and 'Wo"Men

Plans were to up load all of the pictures so far for y’all. But with wifi coming and going I have given up after four hours and not getting one picture- not ONE- all the way downloaded before the wifi went out!!! Plus I have pulled my hair out and called the Wifi server everything but a junk yard dog!! So it will have to be another try here in Kananga area on another day and if that does not work I will try in Kinshasa while I am a “guest” ;). Sorry!  But I have had it!!

Marcia has a washing machine here. She gets up at 5 AM to start it so that it will have the three hours it takes to run and be finished by eight when the guys get here. They hang it all out for her. Then there will be some time to dry it outside-hopefully before the afternoon rains come. If not it is all brought inside and hung on the other mosquito net holder in our room to dry. Really works nicely! ;)

We just had some visitors. He is the Registrar at Marcia’s school- and he and his wife came to welcome us. The other day she stopped by with her baby tied to her back and I asked permission and got pictures. They brought me a gift today. A carving of a Mama carrying her baby and also carrying a jug of water on her head. They were fascinated with our family picture we had taken before we left PK for Congo. They wanted to know about each family. Everyone tells me the same thing when we tell them Clint just made colonel. “Oh,Mama! You and all of your whole family would be rich and well taken care of by all-if you lived here!”

Phew!  Another memory smell. Gag!! Marcia just stepped on a dijinda/black soldier ant. We have carefully looked to be sure there are no more. She has sprayed some poison. She is sure it was not an army or driver ant. Otherwise we’d be vacating the house! I remember them one time at Lubondai. Great Congo version of Orkin! No creepy crawly creature of any kind was in the house after they left!! It’s Congo! ;) I did send you pictures of the Army ants we saw at the Bonobos! Much smaller!

Kids outside are quite frustrated. We have left the privacy curtains closed all day and the front door closed too. So they have not been able to see us. I keep expecting one to climb the mango tree to look in the upper part of the window! Little rascals! They are so precocious!

Marcia and I are getting ready for the trip to Lubondai. Every type of medical stuff you can think of is ready to go. Ten gallons of water plus our water bottles. Toilet paper. Wet wipes. Bug spray. Hats. Cups. Barf bags. Picnic ready in awhile. We are supposed to leave a little after 6 AM. But it is Congo!! We’ll see!! ;)) Unknown to Ken I also have his knee brace. After the trip to N’desha yesterday, I am in a quandary. The homes were not that bad to be between 60-80 years old had had no maintenance. Pretty old Belgian designs. The roofs were rusty. No one had painted the houses in years. But some had flowers in the flower boxes. Others needed a weed eater and mower! I was not shocked or disappointed and neither were Ken and Marcia -and they had lived in three of the homes!! They were surprised at how good it all really was! So. we’ll see what Lubondai delivers. The descriptions have not been good so I guess I am ready for the worst and will hopefully be pleasantly surprised!! Oh well, IT IS WHAT IT IS!! And as Lily Tomlin , from the “Laugh In Show” would say from her big rocker  and sticking her tongue out, “And that’s the truth! Psssaaattt! I will take notes and pictures all day tomorrow and into the night as long as I can see. I’ll then have to transcribe them all. Nothing more until Thursday if all is up and running here when we return.

Take Care!

Love Ya! Me

64. Now Faith Is The Substance Of Things Hoped For, The Evidence Of Things Not Seen."

It has been an interesting time here in the Kasai. I have described all of the things we have seen and all of the places we have been. Last night when I woke up and could not go back to sleep, I wondered what the unseen things were that I was missing. So I waited to see what I would “see.” As I have visited with one specific cook at MPH and with Marcia’s Cook and Gardner here in the Kasai, the other people we have met here in Congo, and the young preacher on Sunday-one thing has been constant –a child-like faith. I think the missionaries that labored in the past would be delighted to see where their little mustard seeds of faith have progressed. Mountains have been moved in this country.

It is very simple and basic faith- as if they believe what they can’t see because of what they can see. There is not all of this deep theology in their sermons just a sweet gentle- and sometimes a little fiery-explanation of the Word of God.  They don’t seem to fear the unknown because they have a real basic faith in a God they do know. They trust Him to do what is right. The past, here in Congo, includes our parents and they were put here to help in some small way to prepare this country for the future. We can’t necessarily see it but He can! (When we were in the tiny little church on Sunday one could almost feel the presence of past people of faith!)

It has been 53 years since we were here (and thousands since Jesus was here.) It seems to be going so slowly for good changes in this country. We humans work differently- we want to take people away from evil and bad environments and whatever else we care to list. But what we need to do is continue to “teach” people so they can change themselves through Christ. Then they can change their own evil and environments etc. As they have so eloquently explained- God has already given us His absolute all! We are already the center of His universe. We are the focus of His Love and Faith. He serves us and in return we so often just give Him the scraps. This relationship with God is without a doubt the best deal we have ever made! They have prayed at the churches that we have attended on Sundays- not to try to change God’s plan but to change us to accept His plan. And at the top of this paragraph I said it was a child-like faith and not theology. Well, I guess it is theology! Deep and Sweet! Now faith is a well-grounded assurance of that for which we hope, and a conviction of the reality of things which we do not see. Amen and Amen!

Have a Great Day!

Love Ya, Me