"Long Ago and Far Away"- "A Little Bit Closer Now"

In this blog I am going to try to share a bunch of pictures from Ken's collection and mine. So no telling who or what you will see. Or what age. I will also include some stories as I remember them - and try to keep lying to a minimum. If I have information wrong- Sam Hill! What do you expect. I am old! Put YOUR patient panties on! ;))  You will have to deal with the Tshiluba spelling too -several are a guess but close enough for the sound! (I'm not Aunt Winnie Vass!)  ;)

Some Central School memories. (Informational for others.) The school- CS- was for Missionary children. Our Mothers alone or with other Moms on the stations taught us- supposedly- First-Third grade. The Calvert System curriculum was used and was really good. About the only thing it did not tell the teacher was: "Breathe here!" Then when we were entering the fourth grade(age9/10) we went off to boarding school at Central School. It had a top enrollment of 54ish-while Ken was there- he says. It was on Lubondai station so those of us that lived on that station went as day students- "affectionately" known as "Station Jerks". We were jealous of them getting to live on campus and they were jealous of us getting to live at home! There were teachers hired from the U.S. as missionaries to be teachers and housemothers for CS. They tried to keep us about 6 months ahead of the US schools so at least we did not have that cultural issue to deal with when we came home for furlough.The classroom for the lower grades was almost like a One Room School House. Teacher taught the 4th grade and then they did desk work and the teacher taught the next or taught two grades the same Bible or history. Discipline was handled by the Principal -we all called just Muambi (Walt Shepard - an architect by trade - when in the US he worked with the group that built the New Orleans Super Dome). He was wonderful -with a great sense of humor, a gifted cartoonist and had lots of patience. For punishment we got to "work in the garden". All kids had chores. Ken and Harry Bolton did the generator and water system. Others had office work, clean the classrooms, check out sports equipment, do the Jungle Log- our yearbook, run Juke Joint and work in the library. Every night there was Study Hall from 7-9. Elementary kids got out at 8 and had to be in bed by 8:30.  High Schoolers went till 9. Lights out at 10.(Ken gave me this info because I was not there!) On Saturdays we would often take our bikes (and a teacher) and ride the 15+/- miles to the Katenda Falls to play in the rough water (No crocodiles there). Ate the sour Bread fruit on the way at a break in the Jungle. I remember when we sliced it open it looked like a brain. Like that stuff on Indiana Jones movie.

Ken's eighth grade graduation.

Friday night Study Hall was kept by Muambi and he was a mess. We spent less time in it and he was busy telling us to "be quiet"as he was sketching cartoons on the board or telling stories- little studying was done. ;) When we all got out we went to Juke Joint. Records were played, ice cream bought and served. We could also buy hot dogs, candy and Bazooka. Special memories! What I remember about Friday nights was that I had to get on my bike and ride all the way home- in the dark, alone- maybe 150 yards- I now know- but felt like 1000 miles.(I peddled like mad in case the leopard was hunting that night! I could hear my heart in my ears! I can still remember that fear! Never did tell my folks I was that afraid because Dad would have come up to meet me and that would have been just awful!!) Saturday night was the official Date Night for HS kids. They could walk the campus and sit on the provided and safely placed outdoor benches.(Supposedly no touching- yea RIGHT- even that long ago ...) Several of these Seniors eventually married each other after college here in the States. The classes were usually only about 4-8 kids in size. We had special dances. (We girls would wash and starch our crinolines and place them on the bushes to dry and get stiff so our skirts would look pretty for the dances!) The HS students always put on a play. We had eighth grade and high school graduation ceremonies. No motels-so if the parents were able to be there for graduation they stayed in the guest house or with station missionaries.

The Congolese in our area of the Kasai were - at that time- in two main tribes. The Lulua and the Baluba. Where Ken was were the Baketa. Lukinga was their king and the king of the rest of the whole Bakuba Tribe. He had multiple wives-as in 100s.(There was a Life Magazine article about him.) As I remember the wives were from various tribes - like Genghis Khan did -to keep control of his empire. Also where Ken lived and near Lake Munkamba were the Pygmies.


 When my family went to visit with Lukenga, my mother was wearing a gold- real gold- bracelet.
Lukenga asked if she was a Queen
in America. Not knowing what was coming, she
said "No." "Then give me your bracelet. Only royals can wear it." So she took off her double string of fake pearls and gave them to Lukenga. They would not fit his neck so he opened up the choker and put them on his head. He ordered the mirro. While all of this was going on, Mother slipped the bracelet into Dad's pocket.  I have it today! ;) Lukenga was thrilled with his gift.

 This is me in the foreground. The lady is one of Lukenga's favorite wives. (Good advertisement on why Bras are important! Or a good surgical candidate for Ron North! ;) ) Notice the straw mat fence around Lukenga's Compound. I think I sent a picture earlier of the men making a mat.The man is holding one of two masks we received as gifts from Lukenga.(My brother Les has this mask.)


These are the Ba Tshange ( Ken's spelling) Village chiefs near Bulape and loyal to Lukenga. Ken is observing the man and his pipe.

My Mom, Dad and Grandmother Irene McCall. As I remember the dark blue skirts on the men shows their status in the Baketa tribe. This man was honored to have his picture taken. My grandmother was as close as she would get. ;) Notice our new car!






Villages were different from area to area. Now I am going to repeat the story I was told. That and 25 cents still won't get you a cup of coffee! This village is a cannibal village. Clear and walls around each hut. No where to hide! Don't trust anyone after dark. So all animals and family were within the straw fence area at night, House on left is being built. The wolf in the Three Little Pigs could have a Hay day here. ;) Get it?
Notice the difference in the village below.

The villages near Lubondai, where I lived, were like this one. We kids felt very safe going to Ntolo's village. They had a "store" and we kids loved to sneak off to it and buy a tiny can- about the size of a shot glass only shorter- of Sweet condensed milk. We'd get the Tatu to poke a hole in it with a nail and we'd suck out the milk on the walk back to the station. No telling what had crawled or whatevered on those little cans. We were less sick than our parents- and I rinsed my toothbrush in the sink water- but always had a glass of water in case a parent walked in! ;)

.
Once a year the missionaries all got together for a meeting.  They discussed issues on stations, transferred missionaries to other stations and handled "sticky issues" between missionaries or families. It was usually at Lake Munkamba. As I remember it was always after we older kids had gone back to CS.

In picture to left Ken's folks are on bottom step in white shoes.





In picture to the right, Murrays are in second row left. Dad (looks like Jon with less hair than Jon has!) holding Marcia and Mom holding Ken.
Betty Lou is third little girl on front row from the left with her hand in her face.





Jobs around the stations performed by our hired help.

No matter how my Dad tried, the boys at the Tech school sawed backwards- whatever that means. I prefer and electric saw, personally.

 

 Filling up the hot water barrel at the Murray's  at Bulape house so they too could have hot water.

This is our sentry bringing in the wood for the fireplace to heat our water. Water was brought up from the rivers the same way.

 My brother Manford and me watching them
 re-roof/re-thatch the garage in the back yard. Weather and ants did a number on a lot of stuff. 

FYI- my brother Manford died in 1992 in his early 40's. His daughter Brianna and her husband live in Massachusetts.

 This is an ironing board! and the charcoal iron. Great till a spark falls out and makes little holes in stuff.











Transportation was what it was fifty years ago.






Murray kid's mode of transportation at Bulape. Betty Lou pulled Ken. Guess he always liked
RV'ing

Dad Murray's favorite car. That Dear, Sweet, tall man loved this tinny car!

"Hit the Road, Jack"- I mean Jill-
is always a way to go!



Guess even Three Billy Goaots Gruff would not live under this BRIDGE!

Globe Master - C119- that came to get Missionaries
 in summer of 1960 when they were evacuated
after Independence.

Guess we Missionary "kids" need a place in the outer atmosphere - since "The Clouds"(what ever those are for) are filling up. In this place we could put and share old pictures and Tshsiluba recipes and stuff. But, oh the time and organization that atmospheric picture place would take-and after dealing with just a few pictures.... forget that idea!! (No one needs that much torture in their later years!!) Glad we all have such neat pictures. And we can share as we can and do on Facebook.Then a lot of you get together when you do the Congo reunions.

So life is good! Memories of a special and wonderful time in Ken's and my life. Neither of us would change anything about it.( Even getting called "Manore" after our pet donkey that got eaten by a leopard.) Love Ya! Me

Saturday at MPH- 15,Juin, 2013

Today was a relatively easy work day. Worked until noon. Had some reservations and changes to deal with, Kabanza got my office mopped and dusted and we visited with folks in the sitting area. Since the drinks are under lock and key, there are knocks on the apartment door when folk want a soft drink. We had a conference of Doctors today -23 of them. Tulane put it on. So lunch was Congo food. (So was yesterday and it was chicken- recognizable chicken quarters.)WELLLLLL. I had to do more than Patient Panties! I had to reach WAY back into my Souuuuthern upbringing and Chaaarrrm School and remember my "take a tiny bite routine" and hide IT under my rice, greens and french fries. (Have I mentioned they do CARBS here?- especially on Congo food at lunch.) So I looked at it and it looked at me, I smiled at it and -I'll be darned if it didn't smile right back at me! A big toothy grin- a sort of frozen- I mean cooked in place smile! Inside his/her head was all the stuff you'd expect to find there and a little bit of meat just past the head and before the first gill. Get the picture? Well if not here it/they are! (Can you imagine the accountant at Tulane when he gets the bill for Fish Heads as a meal!!!)



Fish heads for lunch! And no, they did not taste like chicken!


















 

I am now doing some laundry before supper. I have not gotten where I give my "ladies dainties" to the laundry boy. Not sure why- but feels weird giving orders to the guy that does your panties etc. ;-0 Ken doesn't get it- but ladies- you do - don't you?

Our American bodies not use to all of this fresh and homegrown meat and chicken, our bodies are sort of in shock. One of Ken's Lubbock doctors had told him we would be surprised how well our systems would be ONCE they got use to all of this fresh and no harmone stuff in the products. Well, we are still on the "getting use to" stage.
(A really cheap colon cleanse!) Sorry but it is what it is!! ;)

WHEW!!Here is what is for breakfast tomorrow! Only fresh ones! (I took this picture last week of the sweet rolls Papa Mata made for us). They have  also served us a homemade granola that is out of this world. So good!! All has been great except  "The Smilers"! The Pelepele Sauce is good but - have I mentioned HOT? (Randy,Clint and Jon, I will try to get some out of the country for you three- the " that's not that hot guys!"

We have electricity here in Kinshasa. It works pretty well. However, MPH has a huge generator that comes on automatically if it goes off. There is a night light in the dining room that stays on if it is Kinshasa Electric and if it is off it's the generator. Then if it is off for a long time the sentries have to monitor the mazute/diesel and go get it as needed. And I have the $ for that in the safe. More knocking! ;)

 Everything is on a surge protector. If it is a heating implement you have to plug it into a transformer- now I know! If you don't -this picture shows what happened to my curling iron our first morning. I had it in the adaptor. When I heard Sizzle and then the smell and then saw my missing hair and melted iron. OOPS!  Did not cry or even say a dirty word. No one knows the "lady with the bald spot in her hair" here anyway! Just ran to unplug my computer and phone! But they were fine.So bought a new curling iron at the store here and it works fine in these plugs.Won't work in the US- oh well!

I am off for the night. We are going to English church tomorrow. Have a ride with the Streshleys- who live here  at MPH in the other apartment while their house is being built. Church starts at 11:15 or when the French service is over. ;)  So have a great evening! Love Ya! Me

"Scenes and Life Stories From MPH"



Side view of MPH

"Apartment Kitchen"

Our bedroom

Now it is time to show you where we are living for these few months. MPH has 2 apartments. We live in one. It is two bedrooms with a living room and office area, a TINY Kitchen - no cooking , just a sink area and a place for our huge jug of  FILTERED water (trying not to get parasites- yea, right!! Have eaten out three times and no telling how Food For Thought would find their kitchens! MPH is very safe!), and a nice sized bath. The second bedroom is used for an area to secure tools. I will try to do a rough sketch of it and take a picture. It is not to scale- don't laugh brother architect, Dear! ;) 



K en n his chair in the LR

We also have Suites -which are a bedroom with a Queen bed, a sitting area in a separate room and a private bath.There are two of these. Next are Executive Suites. There are 8 of these but only two have Queen beds. The rest are twins. Last are Dorm Rooms with either two or three twin beds in them. One wing is for females and the other wing for males with a hall bath in each wing. There are 12 of these type rooms. So there are a total of 22 rooms to rent out.  We also have a small conference room for 12 and a large one for 60. Also a library. And of course there is a laundry room, kitchen, maintenance man's shed, gardener's area, and mechanic area. Prices are rated by either Resident or Non-Resident and range from $92.00 a night  for the apartment to $27.00 for a dorm room. Best prices in town. But basically only for our church folks -in one form or another.

 Most amazing in all of this is that there is only one- as in ONE -household sized washer and dryer and they do the laundry for all of this place! Takes all day to do it to say the least. Then on top of that they offer laundry service for guests and it has to get done too! Use to have a hotel sized dryer etc but they have been broken for years!

Corn Plant out our BR Window and Cement Shutters



Except for the Apartments, Suites and Executive suites - which are air conditioned- the whole place is pretty wide open except for screens or shutter type deals. Lower floors are screened  or shuttered with screens and upper shutter areas are not screened. So halls in dorm areas stay warm and dusty and noisy from the traffic and bar across the street. All common areas are not able to be closed off. Just screens and screen doors. Screen and doors are basically rectangles from re-barb .Outside noise can come right in. So can creatures- thus the 2 cats- maintained by MPH/Cindy and now Lenore.

 The weekly menu and the dinner bell that can be heard all over MPH.  

Burgers in Congo!! BBQ night on the patio.  

Ken on way to BBQ. These Mother-In -Law plants are like tumbleweeds here.  Will grow any where and in sun or shade and any other hardship you want to offer them. They are a "hedge" around the Patio. Grow really tall here.

Meals are served 24/7. Breakfast: 7-8 ( Saturdays/Sundays 7-9), Lunch: 12-13:00 and Supper: 18-19:00.  Breakfast comes with the room and the other two meals are $8 each. Bell is rung for each unless there is a conference. Then we have to pay attention and come eat! ;) We all sit together and usually sit in the same chairs every meal. I have given up on these flimsy paper napkins and have gotten out two of our cloth napkins that I brought from Texas. Need to get Napkin rings for them. Think the deals I am going to get are really bracelets but they will work. All meals are hot meals.(Though we will leave out the makings for a continental B'fast if folks are leaving very early.)

Meals are selected by the cook from approved menus. Lots of carbs and fresh produce. Lunch today was Congolese because of the Conference. So today we had two different types of bedia (thick , solid,gruel rolled into the shape of a large baked potato for each person when serving a conference.)Funny- last week Helene, in the office, asked Papa Pierre if he could make some bedia for Ken and me. " How many?" he asks. She tells him just the two of us. " OK, but for no more. Making bedia is woman's work!" (Rumor is a woman makes the gruel and he freezes it here and defrosts it when he needs it!) Also had rice, and fried plantains- carbs # 4! Then baked chicken, baked fish, greens, gravy, and Pelepele. (HOT. No, I mean HOT pepper sauce!! Thought I'd try a little at lunch today. Well, it is hot and I took less than a pea size scoop and whoop! It is HOT! Get the idea? It is Hot! Breakfast this morning was pancakes, bananas and coffee and tea. Tonight is "sausage"= pork and gravy, Mashed potatoes and green beans. (Have I told you that Pelepele is HOT?) We get home made hamburger buns and sweet rolls . Yum! Yep- more carbs! I'd love a huge Chef Salad! Even Ken says he'd like a salad for a change! WOW!!

Papa Pierre came out to be sure Ken and I knew what all was on the buffet line at lunch. When he got to the last dish - "gravy" he said in English with a twinkle in his eye. I told him to say it in "Texas English" it would be "Graaavyeee", He repeated it, grinned and walked into the kitchen saying "graaavyee, graayvee, graayvee"and giggling! They are beginning to figure out my sense of humor in several languages. Isn't life fun!

We have been given our names. I am Mama LeeOnore and Ken is Muambi Mikobe( his Dad's last name at Bulape! Sweet!!). They are written on a sign in the Kitchen-  the hub of MPH- for the workers. Some of you have asked me if there is a pecking order and from what I have seen so far there is some but it is an undercurrent. Helene, here in the office with me, lets it rip if she thinks they are trying to take advantage of me or slacking off. It's funny to hear her and boy can she talk loud and fast when she is ticked!! Today I asked her that since the office was always locked at night when did it get cleaned. She told me who to ask and when- weekends. So will get it dusted, mopped and vacuumed this weekend. With dry season and the place all but wide open dust- dark dust is everywhere. It's unreal. Not like west Texas dust and not like dust bunnies. It turns my hands black when I run them across anything in the public areas! I keep Wet Wipes with me all the time because I still touch to many things! (I'll either build up an immunity or .... oops! Hardest thing I am having to remember is not to use the water in the sink to rinse my toothbrush! All has to be done with water from my cup. We keep a pitcher of filtered water in the bath.)

In the last two days I have had to make decisions and hope I am not being taken for a ride. But they do have to pay it back so it comes out of their salary. Baba- maintenance guy came in yesterday. He had just had a call that his wife- who I knew was sick- had been taken to the hospital. He needed $50 or they would not look at her. So gave him the money and he left for the day. He speaks Tshiluba and lots of English. Then today the young man who welcomed us here as the night sentry - when we arrived- with Tshiluba- also needed money. His malaria medicine is out and they won't refill it till he goes to the hospital and pays them. So he too needed $50. It is all done at St. Joseph's Catholic Hospital. Guess they like to deal in even numbers!?  ;) When Helene got here I asked her and she said I had done correctly. Whew!

Because my office is air conditioned we have to keep the  wooden door closed. So everyone has to knock, After constant knocking all day, I feel like I have been in a tree with an over
wrought woodpecker! Then they enter with" M'excuse, Mama".... and either approach Helene or me. Then comes the rest of the story. Very humble and polite to a fault!

Today Helene got on a cleaning jag. In several places in the office were bags, boxes and laundry baskets overflowing with stuff left by guests. We save it all and just before school starts we divide it and all the tips left by guests and give it to the workers. (Oh! I just realized I will have to manhandle that !) They then sell it and use the money to get their kids "way"to school paid. They have "free" public school here in  the Congo. Only to go to the next grade you have to take the exam and it costs a lot of money.  But school is free !t  Ain't life a kick in the pants!!

What I miss- ICED tea!! SWEEEET ICED TEA!! Made some instant Crystal Lite Peach tea this afternoon and it was so good!  No ice-just room temp. Will have to ration. Only brought one little container of that, Lemonade and Mojito lemonade. I may save some hot tea from Breakfast and drink it later. The raw sugar gives everything a different taste. Almost brown sugary.

The garden here is great. They use all the techniques they are trying to teach here.(Composting, rotation etc) I've never seen such tall tomato plants! Have lettuce, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, manioc and matamba/a green SORT of like turnip green but not!





Well, what you see is what you get. This picture stuff is driving me crazy. Takes hours to get them to go in. So I am going to limit them some. Just wanted you to get a feel for where we live. Take care! Love Ya! ME

"Scenes from Kinshasa"

Spaghetti Junction -two lanes
going both ways. Yea, RIGHT!
No lights or cops- just almost
bumper cars!

They say there is no way to describe Kinshasa. One must experience it. That is so true - there is no other place like it that I have been to for sure. I was up at "Shutshihutshi" and could not go back to sleep. So my mind wandered and then my mind wondered. Read my copy of Jesus Calling this morning and He did it again. He talked to me on the topic I needed for the day. (It's hard to get "nailed" as a Type A personality- but He manages quite often in this little Devotional book. ;) Of course, I'm quite a case!! Hope I am not the only person He nails so often!

Wednesday was grocery store day. We made it. Inga went with us- since it was our first time- but we did it all. Lot of math and money differences. Weird -by my way of thinking- is how they post the prices. Every item has a letter and a code infront of it on the shelf. Then at the end of every row or so is a xerox copy of all the letter and number combinations with the prices beside it. It takes for EVER - especially if the list is missing and you have to go to another aisle. Then back to figure out if you have enough money to be able to buy it(on the preset budget I am given) or have to decrease the number you are going to get or chance the next store. We went to five stores yesterday looking for toilet brushes! TOILET BRUSHES!! Didn't find what they wanted. The other lady in my office- accountant- Helene went to the "Native" market today and found some that will work. It took two stores to find Coka Lite, in a can, that was affordable.They averaged- hey- listen to that math word!!- $1.60 a can. But American guests like them so we keep them in stock.The other drink is Fanta Orange that goes over well. ( For all the bottled drinks we send the sentry across the street to the bar for pop in bottles.) With traffic and dodging people it took us five hours to get jelly, macaroni, apples, salt, paper napkins,carrots, canned mushrooms, a kilo round of Gouda cheese, Coka lite, liquid dish washing stuff, and bread- oh  and look for toilet brushes. Believe me, and I love to shop, but in a foreign language and currency -this is very tiring!Then to a very good Chinese restaurant for lunch (Pepper Beef, Sweet and Sour Pork and Curried Chicken) and home.

Last night we were invited with Jimmy Shafe's Congo group to go out to a Pizza sort of place - O Poeta- not too far from MPH. (Huge outdoor pizza oven and they also deliver- on Motorcycles!!) Some had pizza others had seafood, steaks, burgers and soup. Had water, beer, tonic water, soda water, pop and wine as drink options. All options were consumed. ;) What a difference 50 years makes!




My office. African cloth work on
wall. AC up high on wall.
Helene's desk past mine.

Today in the office- "Working Nine to Five"! Whew!!! I was all alone today since Helene was at Native Market. So I was tempted to lock the door and not answer the phone. But I didn't. ;) I just told them all I was new, hadn't spoken French for fifty years and since I couldn't  figure out how to tell them to "put your Patient Panties on", I just asked them to speak very slowly and be patient. Both on the phone and in person they were wonderful. My poor brain comes out with some Spanish, French, Tshiluba and English. When that happens I see those pretty smiles I remember. Got reservations done, scheduled two conferences, answered emails, dealt with questions from the cooks and house boys, got supplies that are kept under lock and key and collected money from the guests here at MPH. Collected over $3,000 today-American money all! Crisp $100 bills. Amazes me! Almost have enough to go grocery shopping next week! ;) Oh! Forgot!Yesterday I had been given a "yucky"-apparently- $100. Tried it at three stores"No, Madame,we not take this." At the last store she called the manager, he ran it through some machine deal and they took it. I am also seeing $1.00 bills and I had been told they would not take them. I finally feel that I am caught up and comfortable enough to begin to take the siesta after Lunch.

 

Street sweeper on 30 Juin Boulevard in Kinshasa. They try to keep this place clean - on the main streets but is dry season. Guys with a broom and some sort of uniform. They sweep and rest and then sweep a little more and then visit and then rest again.




Golf Course in downtown Kinshasa. Have not idea of what it costs. I hear $180-400.



Apartment building. Fresh fruit lady. Guy with umbrella is selling cokes .








Building under construction. Paper for sale. Phone centers under
                                               the umbrellas. An amazing place to drive around. Modern yet not.

 
 Potatoes on the way to the grocery
stores and outdoor markets. The cars will
all but hit him as they try to weave in and
out.

Well guys, I am off to bed. It's time for the 9 o'clock evening news only we have no TV nor networks. Can't fall asleep listening to the news like we do in the US.  Ken listenens to BBC during the night on his little radio. Did any of you watch the CNN deal with Anthony Bordaine Sunday on Congo? Guess after these pictures you wonder where I am! Sort of modern and sort of sad! Tiger, the orange cat, has caught something and wants to give it to Ken and me. NOT! Going to give her time to finish it and then let her in for the night. Finally saw the other cat. Bella and Ken are sort of checking each other out. Ken was asleep in the chair and she was hiding behind the curtain and they scared each other! He said it was funny. 

Next time I will try to show you around MPH. Take care. Me

 

" Scenes" of Long Ago

Taking pictures in town is a major no-no so I do it out of the car while we while we are moving. So what you see is what I got. Getting pictures into these blogs is a chore- and reading on line I am not a Dummy. Many are frustrated. So I am going to try to skin this cat another way or I will give up! Since pictures  are what you are asking for..... bear with me. It is as if the clog- I mean blog- thinks I should only include three pictures and then it gets an attitude and won't let me do captions and it puts pictures in sideways or upside down! SO here we go! (If anyone knows a cure for this, let me know in"baby talk" technology.) Get ready to stand on you head if I give up. First up is the first selection of LONG ago pictures. They warm our hearts so thought we would share them with you. More later in our stay and my ramblings.

Long ago at Lubondai:

Central School for Missionary Children

Saunders Home - don't remember it this small! 

Lubondai Church- many hours at Native church downstairs and Evening Church upstairs!

 

 

Girl Scout Troop at CS. I sent out bids to keep me from publishing this, but no one paid enough!;)

So, see who all you can name. Oh My Dear!! Love the hair-dos!Lovely Ladies,how we have changed!! Remember making the skirts for a badge?

Long ago at Bulape:

Murray's Home- much larger than mine!!:)








Bulape Church - Betty Lou (who died at age 9 of Polio is buried at Bulape) and Marcia Murray in front of the church.

 

 

 Bakuba cloth being woven!


This is it for today. I am sending it out and will do more as I can. Now that we are in charge I don't have as much time to ramble during the day.Will try to get to the Rest Hour that Clay and Cindy kept as soon as we figure out what we are doing. All in all our first day went very well. Ken had to change a light bulb and and turn on an air conditioner. A large group arrived and we knew three of the eight - missionary kids from long ago (Lillibet Vass, Sara Gay Stockwell and Jimmy Shafe) and  two were Texans - so we knew five!  ;) Their driver and guide is from the Kasai and his dad was a missionary cook at Lubondai,Katabue (SP!?)and Kananga. Name was Ngandu.
We are having a ball. Have a great evening! Later,ME





 

Guess Who is Coming to Dinner!



Registration desk-
my office door over right edge
of chalkboard

       

We have been here less than a week and I have been trying to learn the ropes of running MPH in 2 1/2+ days. This hostel is for church related guests only. It is a very nice place to stay. (Clay and Cindy are remodeling it and bring it up to a wonderful standard.) Tonight a pastor brought  in a French speaking President of a church group who will be here checking on his seminary students. I have also been busy learning the procurement of groceries in a third world country. There are no Walmarts and no grocery store chains. Just several smallish grocery stores. Run by Lebanese and Europeans, they are set up like ours in the states etc.as far as displays. 



Coffee like home!

Hot Dogs!

They are sort of like Dollar general stores but have more. I saw Oreos, Pringles, Mount Olive pickle relish, Sensadine toothpaste( $12.00), chips and Bazooka bubble gum! So, at a minimum I will have the chauffeur take Ken and me to three grocery stores. (Ken "gets "to go too. Cindy and Clay sort of use it as a work day and "get away day" and do lunch downtown together. So we will continue the tradition.) In watching last week, one can make a decision to not get something at one store and try the next only to find out it is more expensive. So you go on and get it because last week the third store you are headed to didn't have any.You get to the next store, they have it and it is the cheapest of all! Cindy took us to a fourth grocery and we loved it. It is South African, new and the produce and all is gorgeous! Reminds me of Whole Foods Stores. Bad news is that the prices are out of sight. Makes the prices we saw last year in Hawaii look cheap. Speaking of prices- before I forget - fuel is $5-6 a gallon. Yipes! Glad I have a chauffeur!

The steps involved in getting a grocery list together for shopping on Wednesdays of each week are interesting. The groceries are bought for meals to be served Thursdays through Wednesdays. I have to count the number of people that will be here for the next week. So I have to count the numbers of people on each reservation and get the count to the cook . He needs the minimum number for a day and the possible maximum and the average per meal. So this next week the most we will have at a meal is 27 and the least is 14. He picks the menus and goes to the "magazine"/pantry room- a huge room in the back of the kitchen- and makes a list of what he will need to cook the menus for the week. He also adds to the list of the items we are running low on. All of the cooks are over seventy- which is  considered old out here-and sometimes a double check has to be done. :;) (It is done on the QT.) Also they were requesting 5 bottles of Ketchup (I saw Heinz at one store) every couple of weeks and hamburgers or Sloppy Joes are only served once a week. So cooking oil, coffee,and Ketchup are now stored in the office and have to be signed out by the cook. There are now still three bottles of Ketchup left. ;) Or is that ;( ? The head cook use to cook at the American Embassy. But he got too old and had to retire. So he works here now.

Once the cook has his lists we then add to it anything else that is needed. This week I will need to get Coka Lite for sure for the drink machine and don't know of anything else at this point. I am sent with a preset amount of money so I have to do the math -francs to dollars and then I have to decide whether to get the 5 he listed or only 4 because of the price.We will also get some food stuff for us to keep in the apartment if we'd rather have a tuna fish or jambon et fromage ( ham and cheese) sandwich instead of what's being served. Lots of carbs are in the noon meals since they are always native fare. Of course there is no Hellman's Mayonnaise- I haven't seen any-  for the sandwiches, so I am not sure how Ken will deal with that! ;) If we need any maintenance stuff etc. Ken will pick that up too while we are out. It is nice having the chauffeur know where to go for what we need. We can also tell him what food we want and he can take us to good and safe restaurants. Maybe Chinese this week.

The kitchen is huge. But it is out of date by US standards. It's more modern than the old wooden stoves and kerosene refrigerators used here when we were kids. There is a gas and an electric stove. Also in the kitchen is the water purification system for the drinking water. Also are several freezers and refrigerators. The sinks are the most antiquated of all. No dish washer. Breakfast and lunch dishes are done by the cooks. Supper dishes are done by the night sentry. (Having trouble with blog caption deal. Left: Cook Papa Mata with water purification behind him and Right: the kitchen sink- metal sinks in the old cement one.)
Meals are served at the sound of the bell that the cook rings in the dining room.(Just like at Central School!) Breakfast 7-8 ( Saturday and Sunday 7-9), lunch 12-13:00 and supper 18-19:00. ( Love my 24 hour Walmart watch!!) Each day after breakfast we have to sign up if we will be here for the other two meals. Various Correll dishes and paper napkins.

Menus are on cycles- not bicycles- but we are new so no repeats yet. Breakfast- baked bread always and french toast, omelets, oatmeal, pancakes, fresh baked sweet rolls, baguettes with cheese or jellies. Fresh local fruits at every breakfast plus hot tea and coffee,water and milk. Lunch is native fare- rice or fufu/bedia, ( a manioc and flour gruel) and native cooked greens often mixed with palm oil and a meat most days or beans and a dessert. Supper is Sroganoff, fried chicken, pork tenderloin, pasta and beef, chicken Caccitore, chili and cornbread and steaks and I don't know what else is coming down the pike. These meals are also served with rice or potatoes, vegetables- canned or  fresh from the garden, salad of some sort -fruits or greens-and a dessert. Like I said, lots of carbs. All is organic here to say the least! Meal pictured is Native food, Chicken Mwamba with matamba greens and palm oil gravy.SOOO good and full of memories.

Last week we ate at Chantilly's in town. (Oh, forgot to tell you that at each place you stop you have to tip the policeman 500 francs/50 cents- which they are thrilled to get-  to watch your car and help you back up and get going again out into this ridiculous traffic). Nice bakery and deli type place. Cloth table cloth and napkins. Bedecked waiters. Ken had grilled Ham and Cheese, I had a Cheese steak on a baguettes sandwich -hold the cheese- and Cindy had soup and meat Samosas. Did not get a pastry this time but saw the swan pastries I loved as a girl at the bakery in Luluabourg/Kananga today. Memories!

In case you can't tell we are having a wonderful time. At the BBQ the other night we ran into Ruthie Bob of long ago and her husband David. Fun to catch up. Coming in Monday are some more" missionary kids" with a group. Jimmy Shafe , Lillibet Vass and Saragay/ "Shruggy" Stockwell- as I knew them- are on their way up country. So it will be old home week/days.

Take care and let us hear from you too!  Love Ya! Me

10,0466 Miles Later-Give or Take a Few

 Muoyo, wenu Balunda ne Bana betu! Tudi mu Congo! ( Hello, Friends and Family! We are in Congo!)

( If you are use to my Christmas letters, you are fine. If not - as in the title for this blog 10,000 + miles- well 10,000+ minutes is how long it may take you to read this post. So get a comfortable chair, read it later, delete it or enjoy this wonderful and crazy ride with us!)

"We are not in Kansas anymore!" We left DFW with Flight instructions in Texas English. Left Chicago on United with instructions in English and then all in French. Then we left Brussels- on Brussels Air - a FABULOUS experience. Instructions were all in French and we did understand it (Or was it the visuals on their monitor?!). - Just kidding- they also gave them 100 MPH  in German, Flemish and English with a very thick French accent! Not one single group sang all of the Instructions or Rapped the instructions like Texas Based Southwest Airlines sometimes does.;)  Bummer!



The whole family was at the lake before we left. It was great to have all 10 of us together before we left for Congo.  On Monday Clint and LeeAnn took us to the airport way early as requested. We were concerned about getting through security with five months of shots surrounded by ice packs and enough meds to start our own pharmacy. Sailed through.They did not open or look in one single thing! (Our Devotional yesterday started with "Welcome Challenging times as opportunities to Trust Me."  Well,Ken does. Well, I do too- but... ;) I was prepared for any eventuality with notes from doctors for each med., copies from TSA saying if the ice is solid for meds and not slushy.... And it was a breeze! Oh ye/me of little Faith! :)

As some of you noticed in the picture of our packing, Ken brought his summer cowboy hat. I wondered about not getting it squished and keeping up with it-but we did. Said it opened a lot of doors for him when he wore it to Morocco to work and speak. Airplane food and service - except on Brussels Air -were average at best. Hoped to upgrade to First class. Had the points. But since our ticket was a Humanitarian ticket we couldn't. (First class even had those bed deals!!Oh Well!) So we were packed like sardines from Dallas to Brussels. When we landed in Brussels it was one of those landings we have heard joked about on Southwest Airlines-"That was quite a bump and I know what y'all are thinking. I'm here to tell you it wasn't the airline's fault, it wasn't the pilot's fault, it wasn't the flight attendants' fault.....it was the asphalt!" Temperature on arrival in Brussels was a wonderful 40 degrees. Felt great after the packed planes. On the last leg of the flight to Kinshasa there were enough empty seats to spread out in this wonderful plane. Sleep is impossible-for me anyway!  ;) Got lots of reading done and watched three movies. From the window we saw the snow draped Alps and a dust storm in Algeria- just like the ones we get in Lubbock! Got all the custom forms for Congo- in French of course- filled out. So then it was just hurry up and wait.

Seated behind us on the plane were two Congolese ladies in full native garb. They were talking softly  in French and what sounded like Tshiluba. So when we stopped in Angola to refuel- must be cheaper there. (The plane was cleaned -vacuum, trash bags, and toilet brushes- while those of us waiting for the passengers headed for Kinshasa and Belgium. were waiting to board!) We asked the ladies where they were from. They were from our part of the Congo. Had a great visit with them. Both times as we landed -in Angola and in Kinshasa- they prayed and sang a hymn softly in Tshiluba. It is a small world after all. ;) Also noticed on the plane the tribal /hierarchy pecking order that we had not seen in a long time. Interesting - in a sad sort of way,

 In preparation for the flight we had heard from folks, read blogs and read the US government hint sites. The warnings of N'djili Airport were consistent. Everything from "things are much better"  to  "Be prepared for... the joke of what is considered going through customs- AKA "How high is the bribe, Mama?, show respect, listen, don't talk back, keep saying:"We are Missionaries- we don't have any money", talk in Tshiluba, and walk through like you know what you are doing and where you are going. All along my Sweet Ken kept saying,"Relax, Lenore! Everything will be fine!"

As we approached Kinshasa the Congo night hit in sudden fashion at six. One minute sunset and the next dark. Really dark!! An equatorial darkness that only the word"black"can describe.  As we taxi I notice native huts/houses just outside the airport fence. We are not in Kansas anymore! We disembarked into that darkness -there are basically no lights except marking the runway. Dark as we exited the plane and approached the pulled up, old fashioned, orange steps - no jet ways. We climbed down the stairs with all carry-ons in tow (Ken a step at a time because of his bad knee) trying to keep together as we were being jostled by the crowds of home bound folks behind us. Then we were herded onto a bus- which has seen many better days, is not air coditioned,  has only one interior light working, is full of people who know the next step is immigration and  all this to only go about 100 yards. Would loved to have walked after hours of air travel. As we get off the bus,we were "encouraged" by the police- with guns- to hurry up into N'djili Airport. As Ken saw the area he was amazed that it has not changed- that part at least- since he saw it fifty plus years ago.Remember those smells I commented about missing? WELL, those at the airport were NOT the ones I was talking about.The smells were a conglomeration of lots of different body odors, food stuff, and "something."

Then the fun began."Immigration- Kinshasa style." All tribal friends and family need jobs-so there are people everywhere helping in the process. Lots of languages. People telling you which lines to get into. So I pick one line and get in it. No real directions. Just observing what others get fussed at for not doing or doing- like cross an imaginary line on the floor.  Folks in other lines are raising voices in displeasure and anger. Some I understand and some I don't. It is finally my turn. From behind the glass he smiles and motions me forward. I hand him all my stuff-passport- open to my picture, my forms from the plane and my vaccination /shot card. "C'est bien, Madame" and he looks at me and then and my picture. Stamps pages and in pretty good English says, "You may go, Mrs. Murray." Next it is Ken's turn. Ken walks up in his Texas hat and goes through the same procedure. Only they begin to talk- in English. Turns out the guy had worked in Houston for Chevron for five years ! The blessings of the Cowboy hat! Next we had to go for the verification of our shots and vaccinations. An old, little medical man just smiled when he saw Ken and his cowboy hat, gave our records a cursory look and waved us through and told us "Good Night." Next, passengers are"free" to go get their luggage and deal with that apparent zoo. This step alone can take several hours- retrieving and guarding your luggage and carry ons. You will be fending off the folks grabbing at your luggage and offering to get  a taxi for you. All for a charge of  course. That procedure is what makes the Internet go rabid with comments about arrival in Kinshasa. Bribes per piece of luggage. Bribes for what ever they want to say you have to pay.

Luckily we were met by Jeffery Travel who handled Protocol for us-arranged for by MPH. The Chauffeur -with a wonderful smile- was waiting just outside of Immigration for us with our names in chalk on a cute hand held little blackboard. He kept us away from the zoo. He took us to wait in their air conditioned lounge area with refreshments, restrooms and a soccer game on the flat screen TV . The others chatted to us in several languages we found in common!.With tears in our eyes, we were thankful we came. They took our papers, luggage tags-- and set off to get our luggage and go through customs for us. (Ken had had me take a picture of our four bags so the chauffeur knew what he was looking for).This Blessing cost only $70- in US dollars- for the two of us- ALL was handled and we were then taken to their van for the trip to MPH.( Methodist Presbyterian Hostel- our home for the next almost five months!) A $70 WELL spent. Bribes alone per bag etc. go for well beyond that plus the taxi fare.

As we were visiting, into the waiting room came the two tall ,pretty Congolese sisters that had been with us on all the planes from Dallas to Kinshasa. We had visited and knew they were home from college in Utah for 6 weeks to see family. One had graduated and the other was a Junior. The vaccination person said their vaccination was "almost too old" and they'd have to meet with the Inspector. So they came to meet their Dad at Jeffrey Travel. MAD does not describe them. " Not right", "They just want a bribe", "Crooked government"... Guess they've been in the US too long and don't want to accept this way of life in the country of their birth. "Well, at least we have our passports. We'll show them.We can just get a new shot card later!" Dad arrives. He asks the lady at desk if there is a back door and out it they all go! :) Next coming into the area  are the inspector and right behind him the luggage man wanting his tip from Dad!! None of them were there.They were hacked ! Almost funny but we put a "Hogan's Heroes" - Sargent Schultz" I know nothing!" look onto our faces.

The airport is 30 miles out of downtown. MPH on the other side of that. So the ride can be a 45 minute to a two hour ride depending upon traffic. It is now after ten PM. We are in the van with the driver - looking sharp in a Safari outfit sort of uniform ,the luggage boy wearing, with pride ,a very noticeable reflector vest,us and our luggage. Next we experience the ride though a town of ten million people. We go past bars and clubs and shops exploding with patrons.They are widening the airport road - and do it at night. No lights! No Machines- just manpower with shovels, wheelbarrows and sweat! We bounce and bump and zig and zag through this town of teeming people -despite of the hour. People are supposed to only cross in Zebra areas ( cross walk areas)  Yeah, RIGHT!!  It's a two lane road. Yeah,RIGHT! Four cars, taxis, mini buses with 15-20 crammed inside, motorcycles and people are all in the two lanes! And the construction workers carrying supplies from side to side. All are blowing their horns and out doing each other in the game of Chicken as they make turns and pass. The cycles blow their horns at vehicles and flit in and out like lightning bugs among them. 30 June Avenue- (Independence Day in 1960) is paved and has lights. Many of the shopping area streets are what's left of pavement-- with huge craters -which all the cars and cycles were dodging or appearing out of in the dim headlights. All was frightening. Now add to this mix people crossing all over the place in the darkness and they are basically the ball in a game of dodge ball with cars! They don't even wear light clothing! Ken had said he wanted to look into getting a temporary license. Changed his mind in less than half a mile!!

We passed the area where Ken family lived when he was here. He recognized the shopping areas  and sports arena.  We saw Dikembe Mutombo's  (NBA player) new hospital built in honor of his mother. Also saw the Government  buildings, Soccer complex and where Ali and Foreman fought. Fun to watch Ken see all of this and remember it all so well..

 

When we arrived at the compound the gate was locked. The driver blows the horn and the sentry unlocks and opens the gate. We tell the driver thanks and bye. Mulumba - the sentry and from our part of the Congo, speaks in Tshiluba and welcomes us- then unloads for us and takes all of our bags to our temporary suite of rooms on the second floor- until Clay and Cindy leave Monday. It has a Queen bed, sitting room, refrigerator, safe, private bath with shower and tub combo and ceiling fans in both rooms. But best of all it is air conditioned!! After barely meeting Clay and Cindy ,we shower and fall into bed.

Thus ends a two day 10,000 mile trip and a War and Peace type entry to the Blog. "Short winded' is not in my vocabulary unless you are talking about running! ;)

First day impressions to follow!


Ken unpacking. Our bed and mosquito net.